K2 South: From loose scree to the Bottleneck
Jun 15, 2004 20: 45 EST
First climbed by Italians in 1954, the Abruzzi Spur is the closest to a "normal" route on K2, but is still very difficult and statistically the most dangerous. The route starts with approximately 1000 m of climbing on loose scree (bring a helmet!) with significant danger of rocks falling from Camp 1 and above.
C1, 6050 m (20000 ft)
In a recent interview with Carlos Soria he commented on Camp 1; "it is a nasty, narrow place, with snow constantly falling over your tent. I’d rather avoid it." C1 is exposed but relatively secure, with little or no history of avalanche. This season several teams will bypass Camp 1 altogether.
The climb to C2 includes a 50-meter off-width crack called House’s Chimney which is currently a spider’s web of old ropes.
C2, 6700 (22000 ft)
C2 is sheltered by a large rock, but can get extremely windy and cold. C2 to C3 is the most technical section of the climb, with approximately 400 meters of vertical and near-vertical climbing on mixed rock and ice in a region known as the "Black Pyramid."
C3, 7200 m (23500 ft)
At the top of the Black Pyramid, C3 is traditionally placed on the Shoulder. Although this is more horizontal terrain (approx. 30 degree snow fields), it is prone to avalanche danger and extremely high winds funneling between K2 and Broad Peak. Consider stashing camp equipment just below in the Black Pyramid; many climbers are forced to descend when they discover that their C3 has been destroyed by avalanches. C3 to C4 is a long snow slog up the Shoulder, typically accomplished without fixed lines.
The primary danger in this area is the collapse of large sections of the Shoulder (you can sometimes feel the slope settling under you). Fixed lines are not going to protect you from the huge avalanches that happen when a section of the Shoulder rips, so you’re better off traveling fast and light.
C4, 7600 m (25000 ft)
C4, at anywhere from 7600 to 7900 meters on the Shoulder, is still a solid 16-22 hours from the summit, so you should start brewing immediately (don’t spend too much energy building a platform, you won’t have time to sleep anyhow).
Summit, 8611 m (28250ft)
Most climbers leave between 10 p.m and 1 a.m. for the summit. Consider bringing a thin line (4-5mm) for the Bottleneck, a 100-meter narrow couloir at 8300 meters that is 80-90 degrees. If it is windswept and cold, the ice in this couloir can create extremely challenging, sustained climbing. At least 10 of the climbers who have died on K2 lost their lives in the Bottleneck.
Fewer than 200 climbers have summited the world's second highest peak – 198 total. 53 have died. K2's overall summit/fatality rate is 26.77%.
K2 South route map compiled by montagna.org and ExWeb, courtesy of montagna.org.
|
|
Feature Stories |
|
Latest News |
more news |
 |
ExWeb Interview: Damian Benegas - Return to a Dangerous Land
Full Story
|
 |
ExWeb Interview: Manuel Gonzalez - Turning to the Gasherbrums to h
Full Story
|
 |
Menno Boermans: Frozen images from Broad Peak
Full Story
|
 |
K2 2005: Base Camp Clinic!
Full Story
|
 |
K2: Americans for 2005 SSE Ridge Alpine style attempt
Full Story
|
 |
Karakorum climbing permit Sale to continue!
Full Story
|
 |
Silvio Mondinelli/Edurne Pasaban Nanga Parbat 2005
Full Story
|
|
|
| Ireland K2 expedition leaving town Sunday Jun 3, 2005 | | Avalanche alert in Pakistan and media reports of 2005 causalties Jun 2, 2005 | | Vikings for Pakistan sky descents! Jun 1, 2005 | | Russians for K2 West Face first ascent May 31, 2005 | | ExplorersWeb Week in Review May 30, 2005 | | Pakistan's last images of Chinese/Tibet expedition May 28, 2005 | | China/Tibet's great loss - Rena dies, Bianba Zaxi seriously injured May 28, 2005 | | China/Tibet Gasherbrum expedition caught in big avalanche May 28, 2005 | | Simone Moro's Batura II expedition: “Thank God Alpinism is anything but dead,” part 2 final May 26, 2005 | | Simone Moro's Batura II expedition: "Thank God alpinism is anything but dead" part 1 May 25, 2005 |
| | Iridium: "Invalid battery - matches found, 0" May 24, 2005 |
|
|
