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Magic Line team on their way to Casarotto Tower on K2: summit tomorrow?
Agu 14, 2004 09: 09 EST
This morning, the Catalonian climbers started out on the most demanding section of the K2 Magic Line...
Or at least that's what they expect, as they actually don’t know what they'll find up there. There is little or no information about the climb above Camp 3, where they spent last night. C3 is located at 7500m on a rock bastion dubbed as the ‘Pulpit’. Recently the climbers referred to the upper part of the Magic Line as ‘Terra Incongnita’ and to its system of couloirs and ribs , both on rock and ice, as “something like Matterhorn, but at 8000 meters”. Whatever they may find, they are now going straight into the crux of the climb.
Final summit push could start tonight
Yesterday, Oscar Cadiach, Jordi Corminas and Manel de la Matta explored the area ahead: An ‘oblique couloir’ leading to the foot of the Casarotto Tower, at 8100m. This is exactly the section to be climbed today. The Catalonians are bringing a small bivouac tent in which they will spend the night. According to their earlier strategy, they could start their summit bid already tonight, intending to reach the top tomorrow (Sunday) at midday. If the climbers encounter bad conditions or a delay due to difficult sections today, they will consider a second night at 8100.
Plan B
Meanwhile, ‘Valen’ Giró and Gulam, a high altitude porter left BC this morning and climbed up the Abruzzi Route. They plant to reach as high as Camp 3, to wait for the climbers in case they decide to descend via the Normal route. Oscar, Manel and Jordi are determined to climb up the Magic Line, but not equally certain they'll take the line back down. If they reach the summit late in the day, or the weather worsen, they’ll choose to descent via de relatively easier Abruzzi route, as did the first pioneers in which steps they now follow.
Oscar Cadiach, Jordi Corominas, Jordi Tosas, Manel de la Matta and Valen Giró are attempting the first repetition of the Magic Line, considered the most difficult route on K2. Tomorrow, Sunday 15th, could be the summit day.
The first Magic Line ascent was made by a Polish/Slovak team. The men were Wojtek Wroz (Poland), Przemyslaw Piasecki (Poland) and Peter Bozik (Slovakia). The climbers ascended in expedition style up to 7600 m. Wojtek Wroz fell from the fixed ropes during the descent by the Abruzzi spur. Peter Bozik later perished during an attempt to climb the Bonington route on the South West Face of Everest in 1998.
Oscar Cadiach, the head of the current "Tarragona Magic Line Expedition 2004" has done 5 expeditions to Everest, 2 of which reached the summit. Cadiach has also climbed Nanga Parbat, Shisha Pangma, Makalu and Lhotse. He opened the route 'Free Tibet' on Cho Oyu and did a new route on Broad Peak central. Team members include Manel de la Matta who climbed Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma. Jordi Tosas descended Cho Oyu on a snowboard. Jordi Corominas climbed Dhaulagiri alone. Ski touring expert Valentí ‘Valen’ Giró has accomplished expedition to 7000+ peaks Duch SpantiK and Gurla Mandhata
Image of the climbers reaching the Pulpit on the Magic Line, Copyright K2 Magic Line 2004 Expedition.
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