K2 series: Karakorum and the ultimate winter challenge part 4
Oct 28, 2004 12: 07 EST
The winter is approaching but no news yet of winter expeditions to Karakorum. Mountaineering challenges are scarce these days some say, yet the fierce Pakistan mountains offer just that - and with a stunning view. Pakistan holds at least five big dares, as none of its 8000ers has been climbed in winter!
Up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal. All first winter accents were made by Polish climbers, from Everest in 1980 to Lhotse in 1988 - the last time someone set foot on a summit higher than 8000m during the winter.
Cold war on K2
Last year two teams went to Karakorum. An Spanish TV team aimed to climb Broad Peak and film the ascent. They said that just to get to BC was a long, frozen walk from hell. They didn't get very high. A storm totaled their camp II.
Much higher came instead a big East-European team on K2, despite the Broad Peak storm hitting Chogori even stronger. The leader was no other than the last man to have summited an 8000er in winter: Polish Krzysztof Wielicki.
Krzysztof commanded a group of young Polish, Kazakh and Georgian climbers. The expedition had an almost military structure, and suffered extremely low temperatures in Base Camp. The climbers took turns to work the route in worst conditions imaginable. Fights were unavoidable and the 'Georgian' branch (Gia Torlazde), as well as part of the Kazakhs, decided to go home. But one stayed: Denis Urubko. He was also the one who kept the team together. Denis reached the last high camp and gave up his summit bid to help down one of his climbing mates, who was seriously ill from the altitude and extreme cold.
So, who's next?
A Bulgarian team might be attempting K2 from the North Face this upcoming winter. An Austrian team might attempt Nanga Parbat. None has yet been confirmed. The Polish, still thinking of a new attempt, could then see their record jeopardized. But the reality is that the Karakorum mountains are quiet for now, awaiting for the toughest to dare them.
Image of Krzysztof Wielicki and Denis Urubko after their descent on K2 in February 2003, courtesy of russianclimb.com.
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