K2 series: Karakorum and the ultimate winter challenge part 3
Oct 27, 2004 11: 08 EST
The winter is approaching but no news yet of winter expeditions to Karakorum. Mountaineering challenges are scarce these days some say, yet the fierce Pakistan mountains offer just that - and with a stunning view. Pakistan holds at least five big dares, as none of its 8000ers has been climbed in winter!
Up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal. All first winter accents were made by Polish climbers, Everest in 1980 and Lhotse in 1988 - the last time someone set foot on a summit higher than 8000m during the winter.
Pakistan
What about Pakistan, then? How it is that no one travels there for a winter climb?
Well, as a matter of fact there have been some attempts, but none succeeded.
The Karakorum winter weather conditions are even harsher than in the Nepalese or Tibetan mountains. Closest to a success was another Polish climber. Maciej Berbeka (Manaslu winter 84, Cho Oyu winter 85) was part of a Polish expedition to K2 during the winter of 87/88.
Central summit
Maciej climbed solo to the summit of the neighboring Broad peak, a mountain partially protected from the wind by K2 itself. Berbeka actually reached the summit, and came back exhilarated by his success. Only later did he notice that he had actually reached Broad's central summit, not the main. Although the central summit is higher than 8000 meters (8030), the central summit can't be considered an official winter climb of the mountain.
Last year two teams went to Karakorum. A Spanish TV team aimed to climb Broad Peak and film the ascent. They said that just to get to BC was a long, frozen walk from hell. They didn't get very high. A storm totaled their camp II.
Tomorrow: Cold war on K2
Image of Maciej Berbeka courtesy festiwalgor.pl and Broad Peak summit © Jamie McGuiness/Malte Hagge/Field Touring Alpine.
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