K2 series: Karakorum and the ultimate winter challenge part 2
Oct 26, 2004 11: 16 EST
The winter is approaching but no news yet of winter expeditions to Karakorum. Mountaineering challenges are scarce these days some say, yet the fierce Pakistan mountains offer just that - and with a stunning view. Pakistan holds at least five big dares, as none of its 8000ers has been climbed in winter!
The golden eighties
Yesterday we wrote that up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal. Another thing the winter climbs have in common is that all first winter accents were made by Polish climbers. Their feats revolutionized the Himalayan climbing community in the eighties.
Everest first up
First out was Leszek Cichy on Everest in 1980. Then came Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski on Manaslu in 1984. The following year, Maciej Berbeka went to Cho Oyu in 1985, together with Maciej Pawlikowski.
Kukuczka 3 out of 7 first winter ascents
That same year Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka took Dhaulagiri (1985). The following year, Kukuczka came back for Kangchenjunga, together with Krzysztof Wielicki (1986). And in 1987, Kukuczka returned again, this time with Artur Hajzer, to accomplish the first winter climb of Annapurna!
Krzysztof Wielicki summited Lhotse solo on New years Eve in 1988 and that was the last time someone set foot on a summit higher than 8000m during winter.
Tomorrow: Pakistan
Image of Jerzy Kukuczka, courtesy bergfieber.de
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