|
|
K2 far from over! Awesome pics from the Magic Line
Jul 30, 2004 13: 45 EST
Abruzzi Spur is deserted, but the North side and the Magic Line are jumping – just check those pics shot over by the Magic boys! Both teams, Italian and Spanish, patiently wait for the weather to improve, and they don’t even think of leaving. Next week we can expect some excitement, as they intend to launch their summit bids as soon as the wind recedes.
On the Magic line - Oscar Cadiach (expedition leader), Jordi Corominas, Jordi Tosas, Manel de la Matta and ‘Valen’ Giró have set Camps and fixed ropes up to the Pulpit, an intimidating rock bastion at 7500m – see picture 4. Currently in BC, they plan to climb back up as soon as the weather permits.
Then there will be no more camps, working shifts on the route or climbing up and down; the’ll go all for the summit! If they make it, they will accomplish the first repetition of an obvious but extremely difficult route following the SSW ridge, once described as ‘suicidal’ by Reinhold Messner. Only a Polish-Czech team ever completed it, back in 1986. Since them, some of the best climbers in the world have attempted it, with no success. The Catalonian team currently on the mountain attempts the magic Line for the second time.
Jordi Tosas describes the climb between C2, an airy ‘Eagle’s nest - picture 2 - and C3 as: ”a progression over huge rock overhanging pillars - top picture -, followed by snow couloirs more than 45 degrees steep, where we struggled in waist-deep snow.” Extreme snowboarder, he has also brought his board along while climbing, just in case of a chance for a surf descent - Picture 2.
North side team ready and waiting
The Italian team on the north side of K2 is in a similar situation. They are back in Base Camp and have delayed their summit plans until weather improves. Meanwhile, they get more and more used to BC life, improving their skills as writers, or cooks.
Yet, they don’t forget that their goal stands at 8611m. Last weather window allowed them to fix the route up to 7000m. Therefore, the North ridge is ready for an attempt to the summit.
Among the climbers, the powerful trio formed by Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich is patiently hoping for a chance to make K2 Nives and Romano’s seventh 8000er. The North route has not been summited since 1996, and no woman has ever climbed the North side of K2…
The South West Pillar of K2, is dubbed "The Magic Line." Reinhold Messner took one look at this route in 1979, called it "suicidal", and switched to the normal Abruzzi route. It was climbed in 1986 by a Polish team, and is still the hallmark of "suicidal" excellence, with exceptionally hard, steep sections of icy rock at very high altitudes.
The head of the 2004 expedition is Oscar Cadiach, who has done 5 expeditions to Everest, 2 of which reached the summit. Cadiach has climbed Nanga Parbat, and opened the route 'Free Tibet' on Cho Oyu and a new route on Broad Peak central. He has also climbed Shisha Pagma, Makalu and Lhotse.
Team members also include Manel de la Matta who has climbed Cho Oyu and Shisha Pagma. Jordi Tosas descended Cho Oyu on a snowboard. Jordi Corominas has climbed Daulagiri alone and Valen Giro has acclomplished expeditions to 7000 m peaks such as Spantik or Gurla Mandhata.
Images of the Magic Line route and camps, Copyright K2 Magic Line 2004 Expedition
|
|
Feature Stories |
|
Latest News |
more news |
 |
ExWeb Interview: Damian Benegas - Return to a Dangerous Land
Full Story
|
 |
ExWeb Interview: Manuel Gonzalez - Turning to the Gasherbrums to h
Full Story
|
 |
Menno Boermans: Frozen images from Broad Peak
Full Story
|
 |
K2 2005: Base Camp Clinic!
Full Story
|
 |
K2: Americans for 2005 SSE Ridge Alpine style attempt
Full Story
|
 |
Karakorum climbing permit Sale to continue!
Full Story
|
 |
Silvio Mondinelli/Edurne Pasaban Nanga Parbat 2005
Full Story
|
|
|
| Ireland K2 expedition leaving town Sunday Jun 3, 2005 | | Avalanche alert in Pakistan and media reports of 2005 causalties Jun 2, 2005 | | Vikings for Pakistan sky descents! Jun 1, 2005 | | Russians for K2 West Face first ascent May 31, 2005 | | ExplorersWeb Week in Review May 30, 2005 | | Pakistan's last images of Chinese/Tibet expedition May 28, 2005 | | China/Tibet's great loss - Rena dies, Bianba Zaxi seriously injured May 28, 2005 | | China/Tibet Gasherbrum expedition caught in big avalanche May 28, 2005 | | Simone Moro's Batura II expedition: “Thank God Alpinism is anything but dead,” part 2 final May 26, 2005 | | Simone Moro's Batura II expedition: "Thank God alpinism is anything but dead" part 1 May 25, 2005 |
| | Iridium: "Invalid battery - matches found, 0" May 24, 2005 |
|
|
|
|
2004
BEST of EXPLORERSWEB
|
|
|
|
