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K2 and Karakorum Daily Wrap Up
Jul 6, 2004 13: 11 EST
As can be expected in the Karakorums, the weather has turned again. The unpredictable nature of weather in this range does not agree with well laid plans. Many climbers are simply working through the snow, fixing ropes, and establishing camps, preparing for a break in the weather when a summit attempt can be made. There are quite a few interesting bits coming from the mountains today so be sure to check out all of the stories on ExplorersWeb.com
Weather:
Current satellite imagery indicates a fairly unstable air mass and plenty of low level clouds over the K2 area. Look for a good chance for showers today below 7500m with a slightly less of a chance tomorrow. Overall winds look to be light at mainly around 5-8 m/s below 7500m throughout the period. Winds above 7500m will be stronger at 10-17 m/s with higher winds near the Summit (15-23 m/s) throughout most of the period. There is a chance the winds will ease by the end of the period. Expect dry weather above 7500m.
K2:
The 'Magic Line' team ported gear up to the Negrotto Coll (6300m) on July 3, despite bad weather. Everything is ready to set Camp I and, from that point, start the 'real climb' up on the ridge, as long as weather improves (expected for Wednesday). Camp I has an impressive location between the isolated West face of K2, with Savoya Glacier down below, and the Godwin Austen at the other side.
Italian K2 North Camp 1 must be set and the Italian team is on the job despite the snow.
Italian K2 South Another installment of bad weather has climbers back in BC. To fend off the impending morale dilemma the Italian team has it’s own version of the Iron Chef competition (this is a repeating theme with the Italians), this time the secret ingredient was Radicchio. If weather allows the climbers will head to Camp 1 and 2 tomorrow in order to set Camp 3.
Italian Scoiattoli Weather conditions aren't great, but despite this Mario Lacedelli, Luciano Zardini, Renato Sottsass and Marco Sala left BC early Monday to reach the other expedition members who spent the night as Camp 1. Davide Alberti and Stefano Dibona decided to descend to BC, while Marco Anghileri and Renzo Benedetti prefer to remain at altitude, and spend the night at Camp 2 (6600m).
Edurne Pasaban and the 'Al Filo' team; spent the night at CII and went back to BC on Sunday morning due to worsening weather. According to Juan Oiarzabal, ropes have been fixed by the Koreans up to the Black Pyramid.
International K2/ Broad Peak Iñaki Ochoa and Alex Txicon have delayed their climbing plans and will wait at BC for the weather to improve.
Broad Peak:
Austrian Broad/K2 double After retreating to BC last week they are now preemptively heading up to Camp 1 hoping that a period of good weather will arrive thus allowing them to reach the summit.
Chad Kellogg and Alfred Schreilechner: report; “This morning my tent collapsed again under the loads of snow. During the morning the weather improved. Before lunch 2 Yaks arrived in BC, one for our Expedition. We will eat parts of them for dinner. After lunch I have been going to Broad Peak Base Camp with Peter. The Austrian mountain guides have all been sleeping, but we ran into Chris Stangl. He accompanied us to K2 Base Camp and will stay for dinner.”
Adventure Peaks Stuart Peacock reported on July 3rd; “We spent this morning having a play with the new oxygen system, checking how it all fits together and trying out the nasal canular & mask.
The plan so far is that in the next couple of days we will go back up the hill with the intention of getting to camp 3 and then possibly make a summit attempt. I have decided to take the oxygen up with me and make my decision weather to use it at camp 3. Although Broad Peak is only just over 8000m (8047m), we have only had a short time at altitude, so oxygen may be necessary if an attempt is made so soon. Otherwise we will stay at Camp 3 for a night and then descend to BC in order to make a later summit bid.”
Field Touring Alpine Jamie McGuiness reports; “If the weather looks OK tomorrow we will head up to take advantage of the coming fine spell and establish at least Camp 3, and perhaps C 4.
As a team everyone is in good spirits and feeling fit too. We fixed 600m of rope on the alternative route up to Camp Half, a safer route except in deep snow, so we are pulling our weight with the other teams on the mountain.
So far most teams have established either Camp 2 (us) or a low Camp 3 at around 6500m rather than closer to 7000m. The snow was deep up there, hopefully the light to medium winds up there have firmed it up.
We will be on the mountain next for approx 4 days, so more news only after we return to BC."
Dutch The team reached Camp 1, just below 6000m and were back in BC as of last week.
Nanga Parbat:
German Brothers from the AlpinClub of Saxony Last Wednesday the five climbers Christian, Günter, Jens, Joerg and Max (Markus Walter) as well as the three Austrians summited. Günter Jung was the oldest person to summit Nanga Parbat when he fell and went missing on descent. No new information on Günter, he is considered MIA.
Gasherbrums:
Solo 8000 Italian Diego Giovannini reports that the snow has prevented any climber from going higher than Camp 1 on G1.
Field Touring Alpine Steve Hay reports “We have established camp 1. It was a hard day, the first at real altitude for all of us. The route thru the icefall to get to the base of the spur hasn't been properly fixed by any team, so we spent a good deal of time setting that up yesterday and making it as safe as possible. Even though with the new found sunlight and quick melting of snow bridges it changed its appearance quite radically by late this afternnon. We now have 3 tents and some food and fuel at C1. We will likely rest tomorrow and then head up with another load for c1 on Monday and sleep there. We expect to head for C2 on Tuesday. Snow and conditions in general are great.”
Carlos Pauner Set camp 2 at 6500 meters. They attempted to make it to Camp 3 on Saturday but avalanche danger caused them to turn around after burying some gear at the foot of the Japanese Couloir, technically the most difficult section before Camp 3.
Alberto Iñurrategi, Jon Beloki and José Carlos Tamayo It is reported that the team has climbed up to Camp 2 on GIV.
Adventure Tours Pakistan | Italian K2 | Alfred Schreilechner | German Shisha Pangma | Dutch Broad Peak | Carlos Pauner | Chad Kellogg | Adventure Peaks | Edurne Pasaban | Slovenian Gasherbrum | Solo 8000 project | Iñaki Ochoa | K2 Magic Line | Andalucía K2 | Austrian Broad Peak | Italian Scoiattoli
Image of K2 North from the Italian Warehouse tent.
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2004
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