K2 Magic line: Valen Giro unable to reach Camp 1
Agu 19, 2004 08: 38 EST
Valen Giro, who left BC yesterday afternoon to help Oscar Cadiach and Manel de la Matta, still on the Magic line, had to abort his attempt and came back to BC due to bad weather.
The stranded climbers are supposedly in Camp 1 of the Magic Line, on Negrotto Col. There is a 1300 vertical meters snow and ice couloir from Base Camp to the col where Camp 1 is located. Concern grows as contact with Oscar Cadiach and Manel de la Matta stopped two days ago, as they probably ran out of batteries in their handeld radio.
Jordi Corominas reached the summit of K2 through the Magic line at 0:00 (local time) on August 17th. He followed the trails of the Japanese Cesen team down the Abruzzi Camp 4, where the Japanese were waiting for him. After a short rest, he decided to climb back down alone through the Abruzzi Spur. He spent the night of 17th resting in C3 before arriving in BC yesterday.
Oscar turned around on the summit push and returned to the bivouac camp on the Magic Line. Manel didn’t attempt the summit. They started climbing back down the Magic Line at a very slow pace. They planned to spend the night in Camp 1 on July17th, and reach BC yesterday.
Valen Giro departed BC yesterday morning and went to meet Jordi on the Abruzzi ridge route, and helped him back to BC. Then he headed back up the mountain, this time up the Magic Line, along with Balti high-altitude porters Gulam and Akhmed, to meet Manel and Oscar.
The first Magic Line ascent was made by a Polish/Slovak team. The men were Wojtek Wroz (Poland), Przemyslaw Piasecki (Poland) and Peter Bozik (Slovakia). The climbers ascended in expedition style up to 7600 m. Wojtek Wroz fell from the fixed ropes during the descent by the Abruzzi spur. Peter Bozik later perished during an attempt to climb the Bonington route on the South West Face of Everest in 1998.
Oscar Cadiach, the head of the current "Tarragona Magic Line Expedition 2004" has done 5 expeditions to Everest, 2 of which reached the summit. Cadiach has also climbed Nanga Parbat, Shisha Pangma, Makalu and Lhotse. He opened the route 'Free Tibet' on Cho Oyu and did a new route on Broad Peak central.
Team members include Manel de la Matta who climbed Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma. Jordi Tosas descended Cho Oyu on a snowboard. Jordi Corominas climbed Dhaulagiri alone. Ski touring expert Valentí ‘Valen’ Giró has accomplished expeditions to 7000+ peaks Duch SpantiK and Gurla Mandhata.
Images Copyright K2 Magic Line 2004 Expedition.
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