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Interview with Catalan K2 Magic Line
Jun 23, 2004 09: 35 EST
There is only one team on the South side of K2 this season going for something besides the Abruzzi Spur. There is only one team to have ever completed the Magic Line. But it only takes one team; The Fantastic Five from Catalonia attempting the Magic Line, successfully climbed only once by the Polish team in the tragic year of 1986.
These Five hombres have been a bit elusive but ExWeb finally caught them up and got a chance to ask a few questions, kind regards to Daniel Martí Garín for tracking the boys down and relaying these questions back to us.
ExWeb: Why did you choose the Magic Line?
Oscar Cadiach: Because it is a true mountaineering challenge. The normal way, the Abruzzi Spur, is much less difficult. Moreover, the Magic Line, although it is much more difficult technically, presents less objective dangers than the normal route (for example: in that the route follows a knife edge, its climbing entails only a minor risk of avalanches). In short, the Magic Line is a return for me to the true roots of mountaineering: mental commitment, technical performance and "clean" climbing (rejection, for example, to ascending with jumars along fixed ropes, that its how you climb on the Abruzzi Spur.)
ExWeb: How does this expedition differ from the other 8000ers you’ve climbed??
Oscar Cadiach: This time we chose a goal of significance and we will all try to achieve it together as friends. In other expeditions it was not always like this. Moreover, K2 is a mythical mountain that is attractive to any climber.
ExWeb: Have you had a chance to check out the route thoroughly? What are the most difficult sections??
Jordi Tosas: All of the sections have their difficulties. The bottom section, from the Filippo glacier to the Negroto glacier, is very exposed to avalanches. It will have to be equipped and we will climb through it as fast as possible. Also, it being a glacier in motion, the equipped section will have to re-equipped after a couple of days.
The section from the neck of the Negroto up to the Pulpit, where we expect to install Camp 3, is the most technically difficult and demanding; with stretches of climbing on rock pillars between 6500m and 7400m. The upper section, above the Pulpit, is a mystery regarding the difficulty and line to the top. Like the Pakistanis say; ‘Inshallah’ (Wherever God wants)
ExWeb: The weather will be decisive, but in the Karakorum it is difficult to predict with certainty, how will you be dealing with that??
Jordi Coromines: On one hand, it is very important to observe the local conditions well: direction of the wind and of the cloudiness, temperatures, precipitation, etc. On the other hand, we will have the support of websites like k2climb.net and AdventureWeather.com. Lastly, we will also be able to count on the support of the Meteorology Services of Catalonia Television, especially when we go for the summit push.
ExWeb: Will there be any other expeditions on your route??
Jordi Coromines: No, there will not be anybody else on the Magic Line. All the rest of the expeditions will concentrate on the normal route, the Abruzzi Spur.
ExWeb: What are the advantages/disadvantages of climbing the Magic Line with a 5 man team?
Manel de la Matta: Anything more than five climbers would make the logistics of equipment and operation on a route as demanding as the Magic Line much more complex. Moreover, with more climbers we would no longer be a light expedition, which is precisely what we want to be.
ExWeb: Given the difficulties and the historically low rate of summits via the route, what will be your strategy for success?
Manel de la Matta: Keep climbing day by day and winning meters of unevenness, taking advantage of periods of good weather and preserving our strength and morale, as well as spending as little time possible on the exposed stretches of the line.
ExWeb: Tell us about the gear you’ll be bringing.?
Valen Giro: We will bring very modern mountaineering gear; high thermal output lamps, walkie talkies, R-BGAN Inmarsat and mobile computer for internet, e-mail, uploading images and video, etc.
ExWeb: When do you plan your summit bid?
Valen Giro: It will depend on our progress along the way, and this, in mountaineering is dependant on the weather. If the conditions are favorable and we progress in the foreseen rhythm, we will launch the first attacks on the summit towards the end of July.
The South West Pillar of K2, dubbed "The Magic Line" in a widely publicized pre-expedition tour. Reinhold Messner took one look at this route in 1979, called it "suicidal", and switched to the normal Abruzzi route. It was climbed in 1986 by a Polish team, and is still the hallmark of "suicidal" excellence, with exceptionally hard, steep sections of icy rock at very high altitudes.
The head of the expedition is Oscar Cadiach, who has done 5 expeditions to Everest, 2 of which reached the summit. Cadiach has climbed Nanga Parbat, and opened the route 'Free Tibet' on Cho Oyu and a new route on Broad Peak central. He has also climbed Shisha Pagma, Makalu and Lhotse.
Team members also include Manel de la Matta has climbed Cho Oyu and Shisha Pagma. Jordi Tosas descended Cho Oyu on a snowboard. Jordi Corominas has climbed Daulagiri alone. And Valentí Giró.
The expedition shares a permit with Juan Oiarzabal.
Images Copyright K2 Magic Line 2004 Expedition
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