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ExWeb Interview - K2 SSE ridge in Alpine style: Chris Warner, part 2 of 2
Apr 1, 2005 07: 20 EST
The Karakorum Range has not seen the last of Chris Warner. This summer, he’s back to take on a familiar doubleheader: K2 and Broad Peak. Bad weather and deadly accidents forced Warner to abandon K2 back in 2002.
But he didn’t stay away long. Now he’s equipped with a different strategy: He’ll climb the SSE Ridge (Cessen Route) in pure alpine style. Plus, he’ll have a little help from his friends, Marty Schmidt and Tao Franken.
Volumes of knowledge and experience from other 8000+ climbs won’t hurt him, either; among his climbs Chris has the first American solo of an 8000 meter peak.
In the second half of his interview with ExWeb, Chris breaks down his game plan on how he’ll tackle the summits that eluded him three years ago.
ExWeb: Your goal is an ambitious doubleheader: BP and K2. However, nobody managed to climb both peaks last year due to bad weather. What is your 'plan B' in the event of persistent bad conditions: Will you stay on Broad until you climb it, or move to K2 once acclimatized, with or without the BP summit?
Chris: I have spent two seasons in Pakistan and know that weather windows are short-lived and hard to predict. We are prepared to stay into late August to better insure success. Our priority is reaching the summit of K2. Broad Peak would be a nice addition, but not critical.
ExWeb: You’re climbing the Cesen route (SSE Ridge) alpine style. That's a long way! What will be your climbing strategy?
Chris: We will be carrying a tent. I can't imagine heading on K2 without a serious form of shelter. I imagine that unless conditions are perfect, we will be able to use less than 3 camps on the way up and one on the way down.
ExWeb: Alpine style means no fixed ropes on the way. What would you do if you came across another team attempting the same route, but fixing ropes and setting camps? Would you change your mind and use the ropes, going for a summit bid before they started working on the route, or stick to alpine style and climb without the ropes and ladders?
Chris: I am hopeful that the wiser climbers will be on the Abruzzi. Certainly with the amount of teams on that route last year, they can make faster progress using the remains of fixed lines, etc. If there are other climbers on the SSE Ridge, we may change routes or keep our hands off the ropes, or share the chores. Once again, our commitment to style is not as strong as our commitment to the summit.
ExWeb: Why have you chosen the Cesen route?
Chris: It is both a beautiful route and hopefully easier to climb in the style we want and without miles of fixed line strung up and down it.
ExWeb: How did you guys meet? Have you climbed together in the Himalayas before? Do you think you will work well as a team?
Chris: I taught Tao to rock climb in 1988 and we have remained tight friends and climbing partners ever since. Marty and Chris met on Aconcagua in 1994 and have been friends ever since. None of us have climbed together in the Himalayas before.
Each of us is approaching this climb from a shared foundation of suffering, philosophy and friendship. We are old hands at expedition living and know that conflicts develop character and stresses are best met with courage and caring. We think we are going to have a great time.
Chris Warner, founder of Earth Treks, an international mountaineering guide service and operator of two large climbing gyms, has been on ten 8000 meter peak expeditions, summiting on Everest (as a guide), Lhotse (solo), Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma via the British route (1st American solo of an 8000 meter peak).
Marty Schmidt, owner of Marty Schmidt Independent Guides, has been on a half dozen 8000 meter peak expeditions, summiting Cho Oyu three times (twice solo) and Kanchenjunga. Tao Franken is the founder of Bomber Gear, a high end kayaking business. Tao has been the California state BMX Champion, US National Rodeo Kayaking Team member and Red Bull sponsored adventure athlete. Tao now guides for Earth Treks’ Mountaineering team.
The expedition begins in early June. Dispatches will be sent to Earth Treks’ website.
Image of Chris Warner on Everest courtesy of Chris Warner/Earthtreks.
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