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ExWeb Interview - Steve House: Riding on the wild side, part 2
Apr 4, 2005 14: 33 EST
Steve House stays loyal to the code of clean, light and fast. What really matters in the vertical world of Alpine style is not how high you go - but how you get there.
In today’s second and final part of the interview, the heat is on. In reply to ExWeb's direct questions, Steve shares his view on "clean" climbing, Piolet d'Or - and - the brotherhood.
ExWeb: Some American climbers say that they don't go for the 8000ers because there's no challenge left there. And yet there are many unclimbed routes and virgin winter attempts left in the death zone.
Why do you think so few Americans (except of course for the Everest repeaters), compared to Europeans for instance, are found at 8000+ peaks? Do you think that will change?
Steve: In my opinion, in North America we have a lot more possibility for adventure in our home mountains (especially in Canada and Alaska) than Europeans have in the European Alps. Therefore Europeans have to look towards the Himalayas when they search for a higher adventure.
That’s why there will always be more Europeans in the Himalaya than North Americans, adventure and I don't think that ratio will change. Besides, climbing in Asia means a longer trip - and more expensive - for Americans.
However, to say that there is no challenge in the Himalaya is a ridiculous statement. That person should explore some more.
ExWeb: Sorry but we have to ask - what is your opinion on the Piolet d'Or award, after being nominated and awarded by the public, but not by the jury?
Steve: I could spend a long time answering this. My opinion is that the award is meant to bring attention to the most important ascent of each year. In reality these past two years the Piolet d'Or committee has chosen climbs done in what myself, and most alpinists, consider poor style.
Fixed ropes, fixed camps, and bolting for convenience are not part of cutting-edge alpinism. I understand that these tactics are not going away in mainstream alpinism, but that is not the point of the award.
Risk is part of the aesthetic of alpinism. If you can rappel to your Base Camp for tea on your fixed ropes, then there is not so much risk. It has been a very long time, more than 30 years, since a truly important climb was done in expedition style.
ExWeb: Anyways, what's in a prize? What real advantages, beside the prize's money, can someone get from being awarded?
Steve: The award belongs to and exists for its creators. Therefore alpinists should not put much weight on such awards, especially when they prove themselves irrelevant to modern alpinism by rewarding a style of climbing that does not respect the mountain environment.
ExWeb: There seems to be a growing gap between expedition style and alpine style climbing. Do you think both styles show a totally different attitude, or could there be a common spirit of adventure in the different methods?
Steve: Of course there is a common spirit. The difference is how we define success.
For some success can only be the summit. These people need to use the most climbers and equipment and the highest safety factor to reach that goal. For others success means engaging in the process of climbing on the most simple terms available. Personally, I believe alpine style is a much richer experience than "heavy" expedition style methods. And what is there, besides the experience?
Standing on a summit or climbing a new route is a fine gift, but many times I learn much more about myself, my partners, and my climbing on the days where I fail far below the summit. The simpler you make things the richer the experience becomes.
ExWeb: Evil altitude mountaineers say that Alpine style big wall climbers are just afraid of heights ;) Do you have a comment to that?
Steve: Evil altitude mountaineers? I haven't met them yet, but I'd offer to take them along the next time I go in to climb a big face in the Canadian Rockies and we'll see who is afraid of what!
ExWeb: Give us some clues on the future of Alpinism? Will the different approaches remain or will one of them finally take over?
Steve: Alpinism is anarchy. There will always be many approaches. What the future generations want to find as their inspiration is their choice.
ExWeb: What can you tell us of the 'Brotherhood'? Do you feel part of it? Critic's call it an elitists movement, rather than a role model for future generations. What's your take on that?
Steve: It's a secret.
Steve House (34) started climbing near his home in Oregon, but he got a 'masters degree' in Europe. One year as an exchange student in Slovenia left a deep impact on him: Steve came back climbing faster, bolder and lighter.
A Mountain Guide certificate by the Swiss UIAGM confirms the 'old continent' influence on Steve. But Steve found great playgrounds back home in US, as well as many supporters of the pure alpine style he swore loyalty to.
Steve has opened new routes on several peaks in Canada and Alaska, but has also guided clients to the summit of Denali over 70 times. In 2003 he amazed the climbing community in the Karakorum Range, where he returned in 2004 and will go back again this summer. Steve has accomplished some impressive first ascents or new routes on 6000-7000 meters peaks, many of them speeding up the wall solo. He completes all his climbs in pure alpine style, or he simply turns back.
One of his 2004’s Pakistan climbs got him nominated for the prestigious Piolet d’Or award: A speed solo climb on K7, in super-light style (his backpack weighed just 4 kg).
Steve was awarded by the public attending the ceremony, but the award finally went to the Russian team who completed the first climb on Jannu North face, in expedition style.
Images of Steve and K7 (6934m) courtesy of Steve House, compiled by ExWeb.
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| Ireland K2 expedition leaving town Sunday Jun 3, 2005 | | Avalanche alert in Pakistan and media reports of 2005 causalties Jun 2, 2005 | | Vikings for Pakistan sky descents! Jun 1, 2005 | | Russians for K2 West Face first ascent May 31, 2005 | | ExplorersWeb Week in Review May 30, 2005 | | Pakistan's last images of Chinese/Tibet expedition May 28, 2005 | | China/Tibet's great loss - Rena dies, Bianba Zaxi seriously injured May 28, 2005 | | China/Tibet Gasherbrum expedition caught in big avalanche May 28, 2005 | | Simone Moro's Batura II expedition: “Thank God Alpinism is anything but dead,” part 2 final May 26, 2005 | | Simone Moro's Batura II expedition: "Thank God alpinism is anything but dead" part 1 May 25, 2005 |
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