A speedy K2 - Broad double header
Apr 30, 2004 11: 50 EST
Chad Kellogg, last year’s winner of the Khan Tengri speed climb, is heading for Pakistan and a big double-header: First the West Face of Broad Peak and then the South-Southeast Ridge of K2.
From the climber’s mouth:
”Our first objective is to climb Broad Peak. We intend to follow the standard route alpine style without supplemental oxygen. Broad Peak will allow the necessary time to acclimate and gain an increased sense of the weather patterns in the area.
Following Broad Peak we will move to the K2 Base Camp further up the Godwin-Austen Glacier. Our objective on K2 is the SSE Spur. The SSE Ridge was pioneered in 1994 by the Spanish-Basque team comprised of Juan Tomas, Alberto Inurrategi, Félix Inurrategi, Juan Eusebio-Oiarzabal, and Enríque DePablo. The first ascent team did not use oxygen to reach the summit June 24, 1994.
In keeping with the style of the first ascent team we will not use high altitude porters or supplemental oxygen. The small team size will help eliminate waste, garbage and environmental impact. Once we have acclimated we will be in position to climb K2 via the SSE spur alpine style. Given our 70 days in the Karakoram I anticipate a summit ‘window’ during the full moon at the end of July.”
Chad Kellogg is a native of Washington State. He has climbed Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Denali, and won the speed climb on Khan Tengri in 2003. Currently he is planning an expedition to Pakistan for summer 2004. Longer-range goals include speed ascents on 8,000-meter peaks and alpine style first ascents.
Image of Khan Tengri 2003 - Camp II courtesy of Chad Kellogg.
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