K2 - 8611m
Climbing permit 6000 USD for a team of seven, 1000 USD each additional
climber. |
American friends for 2005 SSE
Ridge Alpine style attempt
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW PART 1
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW PART 2
Chris Warner will be
returning to K2 and Broad Peak this summer, with a small team of friends;
Marty Schmidt and Tao Franken. This will be Warner's second attempt
(dissuaded by deaths in 2002) and Schmidt's third (previously reached 7000
meters on the Abruzzi Ridge and 8000 meters on the North Ridge).
The team will be climbing Broad Peak (8047 meters) to acclimatize. The
intended route on K2 (8611 meters) is the SSE Ridge. This route has seen
eight successful summits since first being climbed in the mid 80's. The
team plans a pure Alpine Style ascent of K2, with no fixed ropes,
pre-established camps, high altitude Sherpas or supplemental Oxygen.
http://www.earthtreksclimbing.com/journals.html |
Norwegian stars for K2
READ EXWEB SPECIAL
In 2000, Rolf did
a truly spectacular Antarctic traverse. Cecilie Skog summited Everest
North in 2004. While on Everest, her boyfriend, Rolf Bae, mapped out a new
route on Shisha with friend Trym Sæland. Together, the couple Rolf Bae and
Cecilie Skog have climbed Cho Oyu. Now they are all of to try their luck
at K2, led by Simen Mørdre, brother of Sjur Mørdre (aka the legendary
Polar "Murder brothers"). Per Henry Knudsen is base camp manager.
The team will climb the South/South-East Spur (Abruzzi) and will try to go
as light as possible, probably merging the Mørdre brother's skills of
lightweight polar travel with modern mountaineering. Expedition leader:
Simen Modre.
http://www.cecilieskog.com/news.asp |
Ireland K-2
READ EXWEB SPECIAL
There has not
been an Irish person on the summit of k2. The first attempt was in 1998
but was unsuccessful. Terence 'Banjo' Bannon has climbed Everest from the
North side and reached the summit with no sherpa, will attempt to climb on
the south east ridge (Abruzzi) ridge. Although the permit is for 12
members, Banjo will climb alone and without oxygen. He has four climbers
coming with him, but they won’t be attempting the summit. Expedition
Leader: Terence “Banjo” Bannon, 12 members (permit shared).
www.irishk2005.com |
Japan K-2 Expedition
Expedition leader: Takeshi
Ono, members 2.
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Czech Republic K2 Expedition
Expedition leader
Mr.Leioikd Sulovsky, members 9.
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Polish Bulgaria K2 Expedition
Anna Czerwinska is the
expedition leader of this 10 member team.
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USA International K-2 Expedition
Fabrizio Zangrilli heads
this 10 member permit.
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Nanga Parbat -
8125m |
Silvio Mondinelli joins Edurne Pasaban for Nanga Parbat 2005
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW SILVIO
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW EDURNE
Last summer Silvio Mondinelli
helped Edurne Pasaban, the only living female K2 summiteer, down from K2
summit. Pasaban lost two toes due to frostbite. Now Mondinelli is joining
the ‘Al Filo’ team on Nanga Parbat, and Edurne will be there too, aiming
to summit her eight 8000er. Esther Sabadell will also take part in the
climb. Two years ago, she smashed her hip in a rock climbing accident in
Belize; her friend, Xabier, died. Esther was hospitalized four months and
spent a year rehabilitating. Last spring, she joined a Spanish military
team attempting Manaslu. She managed to reach 6000 meters, and realized
she would soon be ready to go higher. Now she is going for the summit. The
rest of the team is yet to be confirmed. The great absence will probably
be that of Juan Oiarzabal, who lost all his toes to K2 last year. Before
Nanga, Silvio is climbing Annapurna this spring.
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Steve House and Marko Prezelj new route on Rupal face
READ EXWEB SPECIAL
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW P1
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW P2
The climbers will try
to complete their new route on the impressive Rupal face of the mountain.
American Steve House was nominated (and awarded by the public) for the
Piolet d'Or for a solo speed ascent on K7 last year.
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Korean Rupal Face Nanga Parbat Expedition 2005
Expedition leader Mr.
Lee Sung Won |
Japan Gumma Nanga Parbat Expedition
Expedition leader Kemmochi Noriyuki, members 6 |
French Nanga Parbat Expedition 2005
Expedition leader Arvis Philippe, members 7. |
Chile Nanga Parbat Expedition
Expedition leader: Christian A.M.Cuq Maggi, members 5. |
Switzerland Nanga Parbat Expedition
Expedition leader: Andre Georges, members 2. |
Switzerland Nanga Parbat Expedition
Expedition leader: Jean Troillet, members 4. |
Czech Republic Nanga Parbat Expedition
Expedition leader: Mr. Pavel Matousek, members 7. |
Spanish Nanga Parbat Expedition
Expedition leader: Mr.Jarge Egocheaga, members 9. |
Switzerland Nanga Parbat Expedition
Expedition leader: Jean Troillet, members 4. |
Georgia Nanga Parbat - Gia Tortladze
Gia Tortladze leads this 9 mebers expedition to Nanga this year. |
Spanish Nanga Parbat - Carlos Pauner
Carlos Pauner heads this 14 climbers permit |
| Broad Peak -
8051m |
Gnaro's 5-in-1
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW SILVIO
Annapurna, Lhotse, Nanga
Parbat, Broad Peak, Shisha Pangma. That's Silvio's big plan this year. The
busy climber is going to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan early in the season, to
climb the Kinshofer route. Team members will be José Bereciartua and the
lady climbers Esther Sabadell and Edurne Pasaban. After Nanga, while the
rest of the team returns home, Silvio will stay in Pakistan to give Broad
Peak a try.
http://www.gnaromondinelli.it/ |
American K2/BP double header
READ EXWEB SPECIAL
Chris Warner will be
returning to K2 and Broad Peak this summer, with a small team of friends;
Marty Schmidt and Tao Franken. The team will be climbing Broad Peak (8047
meters) to acclimatize.
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Field Touring Alpine
FTA HQ in Perth, Western Australia
has announced that their Karakorum8000 website is up and running. The
first expedition climbs get underway from June 16. The site will be
updated every 24-48 hrs
Field Touring Alpine is an Australian expedition and guiding company,
founded by Dave Hancock. The company will be running expeditions at GII this summer as well as Broad Peak and Spantik.
www.fieldtouring.com |
New Zeeland/US BP
expedition
Expedition leader: Martin Walter Schmidt. 10 members.
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Argentina FTA Broad Peak
Anibal Maturano Arrabal is the expedition leader, 16 members
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Italian Broad Peak
Roberto Piantoni, 10 climbers
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Gasherbrum l (Hidden
Peak) - 8080m
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Andalusia return
to Karakorum
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW
After two seasons failing to
summit K2, the Andalusian team led by Manuel ‘Lolo’ Gonzalez will attempt
both Gasherbrums this summer. "Right now, the name of K2 only brings bad
memories. I’ve given that peak too much time and suffering. So much that I
can’t find the motivation to go back there for now. I needed to change the
goal and the place, to live new experiences on a new peak," Manuel told
ExWeb. "Honestly I hope we are lucky this time and will get a summit. I
think we deserve it, and of course so do our sponsors." The team will
climb the Japanese Couloiron G1, and possibly the French route along the
ridge on G2. Team: Manuel Salazar, Jorge Vazquez, Pedro Soto, Rafael
Rodríguez, Javier Vera, and José Ramón Carmona.
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China/Tibet/Pakistan G 1 Expedition
Expedition leader Mr.Sam Drug,
14 members
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Korean Gyeonggi Expedition
Expedition leader Nam Sang IK,
10 members
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US and Canada G 1 Expedition
Expedition leader: Mr.Charles
Duncan Fowler, members 15
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Japan JWAF G 1 Expedition
Expedition leader: Mr.Kondo
Kazuyoshi, members 11
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Spanish Andalucia Expedition
Expedition leader Manual Gonzalez Diaz, 10 members.
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Norwegian GI/GII
double header
A team
of Norwegian friends will go for a Karakorum double header.
http://www.expedition.no/
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China/Tibet/Pakistan G1 Expedition
Chinese/Tibetan expeditions are common in their “area of influence”:
Tibetan mountains (Including Shisha Pangma, and the north side of Everest
and Cho Oyu) and other high ranges within China. But Chinese expeditions
are few and far between when it comes to other countries’ mountains. These
climbers are changing that on G1 classic route: (China) Mr.Sam Drug (exp
leader), Mr.Xue Wen Xian, Mr.Tse Ring Dorji, Mr.Ben Ba Drashi, Mr.Phur Bu
Tsering, Mr.Renar, Mr. Loze, Mr. Dra Shi Tsering, Mr.Ban Ba Dhundrup, and
Mr.Phu Bu Dhundrup. (Pakistan) Mr.Nisar Hussain Sadpara and Mr.Nazir
Hussain Sadpara. All BC crew included the team allegedly adds up to a
“modest” team of 262 people!
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USA
International GI Expedition
Higinio
Gonzalez is the leader of 7 climbers.
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Argentina G1 and
G2 double header
Damina
Alberto Redmond leads a 12 member team
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Gasherbrum II - 8034m |
Baltic climbers come together for Gasherbrum II
The first joint Baltic
republic expedition since the 80's. Eight climbers from Estonia, Latvia
and Lithuania. "With this expedition climbers from Baltic countries want
to emphasize cooperation; and show that supporting each other is more
important than rivaling and competing," says the team. Classic route, led
by Everest summiteer Saulius Vilius, from Lituania. Alar Sikk has summited
Everest, Tarmo Riga has Cho Oyu and Broad Peak. Other members: Eugenijus
Simanauskas, Saulius Rudnickas, Dr. Priit Melnik, Arturas Bazys, Darius
Milasius, Valdis Purins (Kongur 7719 m).
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Jagged Globe
The UK based commercial
expedition company is launching its fourth expedition to Gasherbrum II,
from the 4th of June to 24th of July, 2005. They will climb the standard
route up to the summit. They plan to climb the peak without supplementary
oxygen. However, they could provide with oxygen system and bottles at
request of any of their clients.
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/exp/itinerary/gasherbrum+ii.html
|
Andalusia return to Karakorum
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW
After two seasons failing to
summit K2, the Andalusia team led by Manuel ‘Lolo’ Gonzalez will attempt
both Gasherbrums this summer. "Right now, the name of K2 only brings bad
memories. I’ve given that peak too much time and suffering. So much that I
can’t find the motivation to go back there for now. I needed to change the
goal and the place, to live new experiences on a new peak," Manuel told
ExWeb. "Honestly I hope we are lucky this time and will get a summit. I
think we deserve it, and of course so do our sponsors." The team will
climb the Japanese Couloiron G1, and possibly the French route along the
ridge on G2. Team: Manuel Salazar, Jorge Vazquez, Pedro Soto, Rafael
Rodríguez, Javier Vera, and José Ramón Carmona.
|
Sweden GB-II Expedition 2005
Expedition leader Christian
Danielsson, 7 members.
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Italian GB-II Expedition
Expedition leader: Gian
Battista Bissi, 8 members.
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Italian International GB-II Expedition
Expedition leader Mr.Ennio
Antonello, 12 members.
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Spanish Catalan Banona Expedition
Expedition leader: Juan
Cardona Tarres, 6 members.
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Norwegian GI/GII
double header
A team
of Norwegian friends will go for a Karakorum double header.
http://www.expedition.no/
|
German Amical
Alpine Club
Stephen
Keck heads 13 climbers
http://www.amical.de
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Turkey
Expedition
Serhan Pocan heads a 10
climbers G2 permit
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Japan for G2
Hosoda Ichiro is on a
single permit.
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Korean Suncheon G2
Lee Jeong Hyun heads 7
climbers.
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Argentina G1 and
G2 double header
Damina Alberto Redmond
leads a 12 member team
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7000 - 8000
meter peaks
Climbing permit 1250 USD for a team
of seven, 200 USD each additional climber. |
Rakaposhi - 7788m |
NW Ridge: The challenge has been accepted!
READ EXWEB SPECIAL
Amazing
challenges still await the braves on the high mountain ranges of the
world. One such is Rakaposhi, also known as Dumani, the Mother of Mist.
The mountain holds a final unclimbed challenge: Right on the Shining wall,
Rakaposhi offers the longest ridge in the world: Climbing 3000 vertical
meters (10,000 ft) and running 9 km (5,6 miles) long. Rarely attempted,
The Rakaposhi NW ridge remains unclimbed. The latest serious attempt took
place in August 2001.
Alberto Peruffo of Italy has now confirmed that his expedition is go. Last
he was climbing in Pakistan, Peruffo was part of the “Chiantar 2000”
expedition to Pakistan Hindu Kush. The team was lead by Franco Brunello
and explored the isolated Chiantar Glacier in August, 2000 - summitting
some of the surrounding unclimbed peaks. Team members are yet to be
announced.
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Batura II - 7762m |
Italy/USA Batura II Expedition
Simone
Moro leads the 5 member expedition.
|
Chogolisa - 7665m |
Japan HAJ Chogolisa & Baltoro Kangri Expedition
Glenn
Seljasen leads 5 climbers.
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Noshaq Peak - 7492m |
Norwegian Noshaq Peak Expedition
Expedition
leader Mr. Iwazaki Hiroshi, 14 members
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Skilbrum - 7360m |
Japan Hokkaido Expedition
Expedition
leader Koichi Ezaki
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Mohmil Sar - 7343m |
France Mohmil Sar Expedition
Jean
Pierre Revoil leads the 11 member team. |
Gasherbrum IV - 7321m |
France Gasherbrum IV Expedition
Expedition
leader Mr. Olivier Obert, members 5 |
Baintha Brakk (Ogre) - 7285m |
Spanish Expedition 2005
Exp leader Mr.Jose Carlos Tarmayo Gegundez, 3 members
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Spanish Expedition 2005
Juan Vallejo leads this 7 member team.
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Muztagh Tower - 7284m |
United Kingdom Muztagh Tower expedition
Expedition leader: Bruce Normand, members 7.
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Summa Peak - 7263m |
Japan Hokkaido Summa Peak Expedition
Expedition leader Mr. Koichi Ezaki, members 7. |
Baltoro Kangri - 7240m |
Japan HAJ Chogolisa & Baltoro Kangri Expedition
Expedition
leader Mr. Iwazaki Hiroshi, 14 members
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Saraghrar - 7208m |
Switzerland Saraghrar Expedition 2005
Expedition leader Jean Michel Zweiacker, 9 members.
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Latok I - 7151m
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Benegas Brothers return for new route in Karakorum
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW
Damian and Willie (Guillermo) Benegas, born in Argentina and living in the
USA, have raised the attention of the climbing community since they were
very young, and started opening routes in their homeland, mostly in
Patagonia and Aconcagua. Then they extended their action field to the rest
of Andes, did severe rock-climbing in big walls such as El Capitan
(Yosemite) and soon headed for the Himalayas. They own a guiding company.
In 2003 they were the first to climb the North Pillar of Nuptse, resulting
in a new route opened in alpine style after a non-stop six day long climb,
and named ‘Crystal Snake’. This summer, they are returning to the
Karakorum Range, where they will resume their attempt from last year to be
the first to climb the North Ridge of Latok I.
patagonianexpd.com |
K6 - 7100m |
USA/Canada K6
Steven Swenson, 2 climbers
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Link Sar - 7041 |
United States Link Sar and Dansam Peak Expedition 2005
Expedition leader Steven Swenson, 4 members.
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Spantik - 7027m |
French Magic Spantik Expedition 2005
Expedition leader Pierre Frongois Etchogoyhen, 9 members. |
German Spantik Expedition 2005
Expedition leader Kern Bernard Hermann, 8 members.
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United Arab Emirates Spantik Expedition
Peter R. Forbes leads a 6 member team..
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6000 - 7000
meter peaks
Climbing permit 700 USD for a team
of seven, 100 USD each additional climber.
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| K7 - 6934m |
British K-7 Expedition 2005
Expedition leader David Roy Lampard, 6 members.
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German/Swiss K7
Rainer Treppte heads a 4 climber permit.
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Dansam Peak - 6666m |
United States Link Sar and Dansam Peak Expedition 2005
Expedition leader Steven Swenson, 4 members.
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Trango Tower - 6239m |
South Africa Expedition 2005
Expedition leader: Wojciech Modrzewski, 11 members
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