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Summer 2005 Karakorum expeditions 

Updated: May 17, 2005
Note: List is preliminary and subject to change

  Expedition Archive








 

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Alert: 50% concession in royalty fee continues into 2005. The status of 6500m peaks as trekking peaks will also remain applicable during the current season.

All expeditions expected to arrive Pakistan May 15 - July 28, 2005.

Source: Explorersweb.com / SaltoroSummits.com


K2 - 8611m
Climbing permit 6000 USD for a team of seven, 1000 USD each additional climber.

American friends for 2005 SSE Ridge Alpine style attempt   
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW PART 1    READ EXWEB INTERVIEW PART 2

Chris Warner will be returning to K2 and Broad Peak this summer, with a small team of friends; Marty Schmidt and Tao Franken. This will be Warner's second attempt (dissuaded by deaths in 2002) and Schmidt's third (previously reached 7000 meters on the Abruzzi Ridge and 8000 meters on the North Ridge).

The team will be climbing Broad Peak (8047 meters) to acclimatize. The intended route on K2 (8611 meters) is the SSE Ridge. This route has seen eight successful summits since first being climbed in the mid 80's. The team plans a pure Alpine Style ascent of K2, with no fixed ropes, pre-established camps, high altitude Sherpas or supplemental Oxygen.


http://www.earthtreksclimbing.com/journals.html

Norwegian stars for K2      
READ EXWEB SPECIAL

In 2000, Rolf did a truly spectacular Antarctic traverse. Cecilie Skog summited Everest North in 2004. While on Everest, her boyfriend, Rolf Bae, mapped out a new route on Shisha with friend Trym Sæland. Together, the couple Rolf Bae and Cecilie Skog have climbed Cho Oyu. Now they are all of to try their luck at K2, led by Simen Mørdre, brother of Sjur Mørdre (aka the legendary Polar "Murder brothers"). Per Henry Knudsen is base camp manager.

The team will climb the South/South-East Spur (Abruzzi) and will try to go as light as possible, probably merging the Mørdre brother's skills of lightweight polar travel with modern mountaineering. Expedition leader: Simen Modre.

http://www.cecilieskog.com/news.asp

Ireland K-2       
READ EXWEB SPECIAL

There has not been an Irish person on the summit of k2. The first attempt was in 1998 but was unsuccessful. Terence 'Banjo' Bannon has climbed Everest from the North side and reached the summit with no sherpa, will attempt to climb on the south east ridge (Abruzzi) ridge. Although the permit is for 12 members, Banjo will climb alone and without oxygen. He has four climbers coming with him, but they won’t be attempting the summit. Expedition Leader: Terence “Banjo” Bannon, 12 members (permit shared).

www.irishk2005.com

Japan K-2 Expedition 

Expedition leader: Takeshi Ono, members 2.


Czech Republic K2 Expedition 

Expedition leader Mr.Leioikd Sulovsky, members 9.


Polish Bulgaria K2 Expedition 

Anna Czerwinska is the expedition leader of this 10 member team.


USA International K-2 Expedition 

Fabrizio Zangrilli heads this 10 member permit.

 

Nanga Parbat - 8125m


Silvio Mondinelli joins Edurne Pasaban for Nanga Parbat 2005
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW SILVIO
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW EDURNE

Last summer Silvio Mondinelli helped Edurne Pasaban, the only living female K2 summiteer, down from K2 summit. Pasaban lost two toes due to frostbite. Now Mondinelli is joining the ‘Al Filo’ team on Nanga Parbat, and Edurne will be there too, aiming to summit her eight 8000er. Esther Sabadell will also take part in the climb. Two years ago, she smashed her hip in a rock climbing accident in Belize; her friend, Xabier, died. Esther was hospitalized four months and spent a year rehabilitating. Last spring, she joined a Spanish military team attempting Manaslu. She managed to reach 6000 meters, and realized she would soon be ready to go higher. Now she is going for the summit. The rest of the team is yet to be confirmed. The great absence will probably be that of Juan Oiarzabal, who lost all his toes to K2 last year. Before Nanga, Silvio is climbing Annapurna this spring.  


Steve House and Marko Prezelj new route on Rupal face   
READ EXWEB SPECIAL
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW P1
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW P2


The climbers will try to complete their new route on the impressive Rupal face of the mountain. American Steve House was nominated (and awarded by the public) for the Piolet d'Or for a solo speed ascent on K7 last year.
 

Korean Rupal Face Nanga Parbat Expedition 2005 

Expedition leader Mr. Lee Sung Won

Japan Gumma Nanga Parbat Expedition

Expedition leader Kemmochi Noriyuki, members 6

French Nanga Parbat Expedition 2005

Expedition leader Arvis Philippe, members 7.

Chile Nanga Parbat Expedition

Expedition leader: Christian A.M.Cuq Maggi, members 5.

Switzerland Nanga Parbat Expedition

Expedition leader: Andre Georges, members 2.

Switzerland Nanga Parbat Expedition

Expedition leader: Jean Troillet, members 4.

Czech Republic Nanga Parbat Expedition

Expedition leader: Mr. Pavel Matousek, members 7.

Spanish Nanga Parbat Expedition

Expedition leader: Mr.Jarge Egocheaga, members 9.

Switzerland Nanga Parbat Expedition

Expedition leader: Jean Troillet, members 4.

Georgia Nanga Parbat - Gia Tortladze

Gia Tortladze leads this 9 mebers expedition to Nanga this year.

Spanish Nanga Parbat - Carlos Pauner

Carlos Pauner heads this 14 climbers permit
 

Broad Peak - 8051m


Gnaro's 5-in-1   
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW SILVIO

Annapurna, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Shisha Pangma. That's Silvio's big plan this year. The busy climber is going to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan early in the season, to climb the Kinshofer route. Team members will be José Bereciartua and the lady climbers Esther Sabadell and Edurne Pasaban. After Nanga, while the rest of the team returns home, Silvio will stay in Pakistan to give Broad Peak a try.

http://www.gnaromondinelli.it/


American K2/BP double header  
READ EXWEB SPECIAL

Chris Warner will be returning to K2 and Broad Peak this summer, with a small team of friends; Marty Schmidt and Tao Franken. The team will be climbing Broad Peak (8047 meters) to acclimatize.

 

Field Touring Alpine 

FTA HQ in Perth, Western Australia has announced that their Karakorum8000 website is up and running. The first expedition climbs get underway from June 16. The site will be updated every 24-48 hrs

Field Touring Alpine is an Australian expedition and guiding company, founded by Dave Hancock. The company will be running expeditions at GII this summer as well as Broad Peak and Spantik.

www.fieldtouring.com


New Zeeland/US BP expedition   

Expedition leader: Martin Walter Schmidt. 10 members.


Argentina FTA Broad Peak   

Anibal Maturano Arrabal is the expedition leader, 16 members


Italian Broad Peak   

Roberto Piantoni, 10 climbers


Gasherbrum l (Hidden Peak) - 8080m


Andalusia return to Karakorum  READ EXWEB INTERVIEW

After two seasons failing to summit K2, the Andalusian team led by Manuel ‘Lolo’ Gonzalez will attempt both Gasherbrums this summer. "Right now, the name of K2 only brings bad memories. I’ve given that peak too much time and suffering. So much that I can’t find the motivation to go back there for now. I needed to change the goal and the place, to live new experiences on a new peak," Manuel told ExWeb. "Honestly I hope we are lucky this time and will get a summit. I think we deserve it, and of course so do our sponsors." The team will climb the Japanese Couloiron G1, and possibly the French route along the ridge on G2. Team: Manuel Salazar, Jorge Vazquez, Pedro Soto, Rafael Rodríguez, Javier Vera, and José Ramón Carmona.


China/Tibet/Pakistan G 1 Expedition

Expedition leader Mr.Sam Drug, 14 members


Korean Gyeonggi Expedition

Expedition leader Nam Sang IK, 10 members


US and Canada G 1 Expedition

Expedition leader: Mr.Charles Duncan Fowler, members 15


Japan JWAF G 1 Expedition

Expedition leader: Mr.Kondo Kazuyoshi, members 11


Spanish Andalucia Expedition

Expedition leader Manual Gonzalez Diaz, 10 members.


Norwegian GI/GII double header

A team of Norwegian friends will go for a Karakorum double header.

http://www.expedition.no/


China/Tibet/Pakistan G1 Expedition

Chinese/Tibetan expeditions are common in their “area of influence”: Tibetan mountains (Including Shisha Pangma, and the north side of Everest and Cho Oyu) and other high ranges within China. But Chinese expeditions are few and far between when it comes to other countries’ mountains. These climbers are changing that on G1 classic route: (China) Mr.Sam Drug (exp leader), Mr.Xue Wen Xian, Mr.Tse Ring Dorji, Mr.Ben Ba Drashi, Mr.Phur Bu Tsering, Mr.Renar, Mr. Loze, Mr. Dra Shi Tsering, Mr.Ban Ba Dhundrup, and Mr.Phu Bu Dhundrup. (Pakistan) Mr.Nisar Hussain Sadpara and Mr.Nazir Hussain Sadpara. All BC crew included the team allegedly adds up to a “modest” team of 262 people!


USA International GI Expedition

Higinio Gonzalez is the leader of 7 climbers.


Argentina G1 and G2 double header

Damina Alberto Redmond leads a 12 member team


Gasherbrum II - 8034m

Baltic climbers come together for Gasherbrum II 

The first joint Baltic republic expedition since the 80's. Eight climbers from Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. "With this expedition climbers from Baltic countries want to emphasize cooperation; and show that supporting each other is more important than rivaling and competing," says the team. Classic route, led by Everest summiteer Saulius Vilius, from Lituania. Alar Sikk has summited Everest, Tarmo Riga has Cho Oyu and Broad Peak. Other members: Eugenijus Simanauskas, Saulius Rudnickas, Dr. Priit Melnik, Arturas Bazys, Darius Milasius, Valdis Purins (Kongur 7719 m).
 


Jagged Globe 

The UK based commercial expedition company is launching its fourth expedition to Gasherbrum II, from the 4th of June to 24th of July, 2005. They will climb the standard route up to the summit. They plan to climb the peak without supplementary oxygen. However, they could provide with oxygen system and bottles at request of any of their clients.

http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/exp/itinerary/gasherbrum+ii.html
 


Andalusia return to Karakorum   
READ EXWEB INTERVIEW

After two seasons failing to summit K2, the Andalusia team led by Manuel ‘Lolo’ Gonzalez will attempt both Gasherbrums this summer. "Right now, the name of K2 only brings bad memories. I’ve given that peak too much time and suffering. So much that I can’t find the motivation to go back there for now. I needed to change the goal and the place, to live new experiences on a new peak," Manuel told ExWeb. "Honestly I hope we are lucky this time and will get a summit. I think we deserve it, and of course so do our sponsors." The team will climb the Japanese Couloiron G1, and possibly the French route along the ridge on G2. Team: Manuel Salazar, Jorge Vazquez, Pedro Soto, Rafael Rodríguez, Javier Vera, and José Ramón Carmona.
 


Sweden GB-II Expedition 2005 

Expedition leader Christian Danielsson, 7 members.


Italian GB-II Expedition

Expedition leader: Gian Battista Bissi, 8 members.


Italian International GB-II Expedition 

Expedition leader Mr.Ennio Antonello, 12 members.


Spanish Catalan Banona Expedition 

Expedition leader: Juan Cardona Tarres, 6 members.


Norwegian GI/GII double header

A team of Norwegian friends will go for a Karakorum double header.
http://www.expedition.no/


German Amical Alpine Club

Stephen Keck heads 13 climbers
http://www.amical.de


Turkey Expedition

Serhan Pocan heads a 10 climbers G2 permit
 


Japan for G2

Hosoda Ichiro is on a single permit.
 


Korean Suncheon G2

Lee Jeong Hyun heads 7 climbers.
 


Argentina G1 and G2 double header

Damina Alberto Redmond leads a 12 member team
 


7000 - 8000 meter peaks
Climbing permit 1250 USD for a team of seven, 200 USD each additional climber.


Rakaposhi - 7788m


NW Ridge: The challenge has been accepted!   READ EXWEB SPECIAL

Amazing challenges still await the braves on the high mountain ranges of the world. One such is Rakaposhi, also known as Dumani, the Mother of Mist. The mountain holds a final unclimbed challenge: Right on the Shining wall, Rakaposhi offers the longest ridge in the world: Climbing 3000 vertical meters (10,000 ft) and running 9 km (5,6 miles) long. Rarely attempted, The Rakaposhi NW ridge remains unclimbed. The latest serious attempt took place in August 2001.

Alberto Peruffo of Italy has now confirmed that his expedition is go. Last he was climbing in Pakistan, Peruffo was part of the “Chiantar 2000” expedition to Pakistan Hindu Kush. The team was lead by Franco Brunello and explored the isolated Chiantar Glacier in August, 2000 - summitting some of the surrounding unclimbed peaks. Team members are yet to be announced.


Batura II - 7762m


Italy/USA Batura II Expedition

Simone Moro leads the 5 member expedition.


Chogolisa - 7665m


Japan HAJ Chogolisa & Baltoro Kangri Expedition

Glenn Seljasen leads 5 climbers.


Noshaq Peak - 7492m


Norwegian Noshaq Peak Expedition

Expedition leader Mr. Iwazaki Hiroshi, 14 members


Skilbrum - 7360m


Japan Hokkaido Expedition

Expedition leader Koichi Ezaki


Mohmil Sar - 7343m

France Mohmil Sar Expedition

Jean Pierre Revoil leads the 11 member team.

Gasherbrum IV - 7321m

France Gasherbrum IV Expedition

Expedition leader Mr. Olivier Obert, members 5

Baintha Brakk (Ogre) - 7285m


Spanish Expedition 2005

Exp leader Mr.Jose Carlos Tarmayo Gegundez, 3 members


Spanish Expedition 2005

Juan Vallejo leads this 7 member team.


Muztagh Tower - 7284m


United Kingdom Muztagh Tower expedition

Expedition leader: Bruce Normand, members 7.


Summa Peak - 7263m

Japan Hokkaido Summa Peak Expedition

Expedition leader Mr. Koichi Ezaki, members 7.

Baltoro Kangri - 7240m


Japan HAJ Chogolisa & Baltoro Kangri Expedition

Expedition leader Mr. Iwazaki Hiroshi, 14 members


Saraghrar - 7208m


Switzerland Saraghrar Expedition 2005

Expedition leader Jean Michel Zweiacker, 9 members.


Latok I -
7151m


Benegas Brothers  return for new route in Karakorum   READ EXWEB INTERVIEW

Damian and Willie (Guillermo) Benegas, born in Argentina and living in the USA, have raised the attention of the climbing community since they were very young, and started opening routes in their homeland, mostly in Patagonia and Aconcagua. Then they extended their action field to the rest of Andes, did severe rock-climbing in big walls such as El Capitan (Yosemite) and soon headed for the Himalayas. They own a guiding company.

In 2003 they were the first to climb the North Pillar of Nuptse, resulting in a new route opened in alpine style after a non-stop six day long climb, and named ‘Crystal Snake’. This summer, they are returning to the Karakorum Range, where they will resume their attempt from last year to be the first to climb the North Ridge of Latok I.

patagonianexpd.com


K6 - 7100m


USA/Canada K6

Steven Swenson, 2 climbers


Link Sar - 7041


United States Link Sar and Dansam Peak Expedition 2005

Expedition leader Steven Swenson, 4 members.


Spantik - 7027m

French Magic Spantik Expedition 2005

Expedition leader Pierre Frongois Etchogoyhen, 9 members.


German Spantik Expedition 2005

Expedition leader Kern Bernard Hermann, 8 members.


United Arab Emirates Spantik Expedition

Peter R. Forbes leads a 6 member team..


6000 - 7000 meter peaks
Climbing permit 700 USD for a team of seven, 100 USD each additional climber.
 

K7 - 6934m


British K-7 Expedition 2005

Expedition leader David Roy Lampard, 6 members.


German/Swiss K7

Rainer Treppte heads a 4 climber permit.


Dansam Peak - 6666m


United States Link Sar and Dansam Peak Expedition 2005

Expedition leader Steven Swenson, 4 members.


Trango Tower - 6239m


South Africa Expedition 2005

Expedition leader: Wojciech Modrzewski, 11 members


 

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