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Summer 2003 Karakorum expeditions
*preliminary results
Updated: September 4, 2003
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Please note: Did we miss you or your friends?
Mail us at: team@explorersweb.com |
K2 South Side - Pakistan - 8611m
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North Ridge K2 Expedition
A six-member international expedition plans to attempt the North Ridge of K2 this spring.
By the time the expedition met in Kashgar, the original six member team had dwindled to three: Eric Nilles (USA), Mike Dorse (Canada) and the team leader Johan Heersink (Holland). Heersink decided not to climb; Nilles and Dorse reached a height of 22,000ft before turning around. Nilles set out again alone to attempt the summit, but upon reaching 22,000 in high winds and snow, he decided to call it off. There were no other teams on the North Ridge route at the time.
No
website, but a K2Climb.net story about the North Side Expedition |
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K2 South Side - Pakistan - 8611m
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Kazakhstan/International 3-in-1 Expedition - Nanga Parbat/Broad Peak/K2 - 
The Kazakhstan/International 3-in-1 Expedition includes a core group of climbers from the Kazakh National team who are going for all 14 8000ers. This summer, they plan on climbing three of them; first Nanga Parbat, then Broad Peak and K2. Many other strong climbers from other countries are also involved for part of, if not all three of the mountains. Simone Moro plans to go for all three with the Kazakh
team.
Kazakh members: Zhunusov Baglan (expedition head), Ervand Iljinsky (coach),
Maksut Zhumayev (leader), Denis Urubko, Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Pivtsov, Serguey Lavrov, Vassily Litvinov, Damir Molgachev, and
Dima Chumakov.
International members: Simone Moro (Italy), Barbara Zwerger (Italy),
Ińaki
Ochoa (Spain), Serguey Bogomolov (Russia), Ed Viesturs (USA),
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, and
Jean Christophe Lafaille (France)
Before K2 turned them back, many members of this multi-national expedition successfully reached the top of both Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak. The results:
Nanga Parbat:
Kazakh
Team – June 17, 2003, 8:30 a.m. - Denis Urubko, Dima Chumakov, Maksut
Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov. June 18, 2003, 1:00 p.m. - Sergei Lavrov,
Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Litvinov and Sergei Bogomolov from Russia.
International Team – June 20, 2003 - Ińaki Ochoa, Gerlinde
Kaltenbrunner. June 23, 2003 11:00 a.m. Jean Christophe Lafaille*, Ed
Viesturs.
*Jean
Christophe Lafaille and Simone Moro opened a new route - the Tom and
Martina Route - to the left of the Kinshofer Route. Not
well-acclimatized, Simone turned around and did not reach the summit of
Nanga Parbat this year..
Broad Peak
Kazakh Team - July 16, 2003 10 am (Almaty time) Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily
Pivtsov and Dmitry Chumakov. July 17, 2003, 10 am (Almaty time)
Serguey Lavrov, Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Litvinov and Russian climber
Serguey Bogomolov. July 18, 2003 - Denis Urubko
International Team – July 15, 2003 - Jean Christophe Lafaille (11h10),
Simone Moro (11h45), Ińaki Ochoa (12h00), and Ed Viesturs (11h00)
http://www.russianclimb.com/karakorum/3in1_en.html
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Czech Republic - K2/Broad Peak Expedition -
A
three-man Czech team will attempt to climb Broad Peak and K2 this summer.
Climber Radek Jaros has summited Everest and Kangchenjunga without
oxygen and along with Petr Masek made it to the Shoulder, on the SSE
Ridge of K2 in 2001. Martin Minarik has previously summited Manaslu and
Kangchenjunga without oxygen.
Expedition members: Radek Jaros, Petr Masek, and Martin Minarik
As with all K2 expeditions, the Czech team was turned around this year. However, Martin
Minarek, Radek Jaros and Petr Masek summited Broad Peak on July 18, 2003.
http://www.radekjaros.cz/k2/en
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Spanish Andalusia K2 Expedition -
(in Spanish)
The Andalusian K2 team attempted K2 last year, but
like all the other expeditions, was turned around due to poor weather. This year, they must be hungrier and more motivated than ever to finish what they started.
Expedition members: Manuel González (leader), Manuel Salazar (deputy leader and logistics), Amparo Ortega (medical), Jorge Vázquez (medical), Manuel Morales (audiovisual), Fernando Fernandez-Vivancos (Technician), Javier Sánchez (telecommunications and power), Juanjo Garra (Cameraman), and Francisco Alí Manén (Andalusian Liaison)
In their initial summit attempt, the Andalusian team fought rough weather and slick route conditions to an altitude of 8200m before the fatal fall of a climber from another expedition stopped everyone in their tracks. The Andalusians waited and tried a subsequent attempt, but high winds thwarted their final effort for the season.
http://www.deporteandaluz.com/k2/noticias.htm
(Spanish)
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La grande aventure du K2 - (in
French)
Alfred
Schreilechner, Claude-André Nadon and Sylvain Geneau attempted K2, but like other expeditions, found the unstable weather and unsafe route conditions too dangerous to continue. They ended their expedition in early August.
http://www.expeditionk2-2003.com/html
(in French)
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Swiss
K2
Expedition 2003
-
This
summer season Kari's commercial outfit, Kobler and Partners, is fielding
both a
K2
and Gasherbrum II expedition.
The
Swiss expedition led by Kari Kobler ended its
K2
attempt after a member on the expedition fell to his death from about
8300m on
K2
,
July
21, 2003
.
http://www.kobler-partner.ch/newslist.asp
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Spanish Gasherbrum I & K2 Expedition -
(in Spanish)
Araceli Segarra and Hector Ponce de Leon plan to climb Gasherbrum I, 8080m this season before heading across the glacier for their attempt on K2. The pair has climbed together several times. They attempted K2 last year and climbed to 8000m on Kangchenjunga in 2001. They have also climbed in the Canadian Rockies and in Spain.
Araceli Segarra and Hector Ponce de Leon turned around on their summit attempt on GI and did not proceed to K2.
http://www.aracelisegarra.com/k22003.htm
(in Spanish)
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Romania Carpatica K2 Expedition - CANCELLED
Led by Bogdan Cuibus, the Romania Carpatica K2 Expedition 2003 will attempt to climb K2 this summer.
Expedition members: Ecaterina Bogdan Cuibus (leader), Simon Ferenc, and Lokody
Levente.
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Gasherbrums I and II - 8068m and 8035m
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Italian Gasherbrum I/II & Broad Peak Expedition 2003
Together with husband Romano Benet and fellow climber Luca Vuerich,
Nives Meroi reached the summits of GI, GII and Broad Peak in a mere 20 days
this past summer. Nives now has 5, 8000m peaks under her belt.
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Spanish Al Filo de lo impossible Gasherbrum I/II Expedition 2003 -
(Spanish)
Juanito Oiarzabal, one of only 11 to have summited all the world's 14,
8000m peaks led the successful Gasherbrum I/II expedition.
On Jul 27 Juanito Oiarzabal, Edurne Pasaban, Jose Bereziartua and Iván Vallejo reached the summit of Gasherbrum I in stormy weather.
http://www.edurnepasaban.net
(Spanish)
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Amical Alpin Gasherbrum II Expedition
On July 19, Klaus Mees, Bernhard Olzowy, Thomas Türpe, Martin Göggelmann, Paul Koller, Qudrat Ali, Mohmmad Sadig, Ezat Ullah Baig, Mahruban Karim and Mohmmad
Ibrahim all summited GII.
http://www.amical.de
(German)
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Hungarian Gasherbrum I/II Expedition
On July 19, 2003 Júlia Nedeczky and Anita Ugyan became the first female Hungarian climbers to reach the summit of GII. They were followed by fellow climber Katalin Csollány on July 20.
As part of a thirteen member Hungarian expedition, the team set out on a double-header attempt on Gasherbrum I & II. Nine climbers reached the summit of
GII. Zsolt Erőss, László Mécs, Dávid Klein on July 19, and József Csíkos, László Vörös, Zoltán Ács on July 20
http://www.explorers.hu
(Hungarian)
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Adventure Consultants Gasherbrum II Expedition -
The Adventure Consultants team was not able to summit either of the Gasherbrums this
summer.
http://www.adventureconsultants.co.nz/
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Italian Gasherbrum II Expedition
Cappellari Francesco led a successful expedition to Gasherbrum II.
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Patagonia Mountain Agency Gasherbrum II Expedition
Ryszard Pawlowski led a successful expedition to Gasherbrum II.
http://www.mountainagency.com/
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Ukraine Gasherbrum I and Trango Tower Expedition 2003 -
The team successfully ascended both Gasherbrum I and Trango Tower this
summer. Expedition member Volodymyr Pestrykov died, however, while
climbing GI
http://www.russianclimb.com/ukr_hidden.html
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Japanese Workers Alpine Federation Gasherbrum II Expedition 2003
Mr. Kazuyoshi Kondo led a successful ascent of Gasherbrum II.
http://www.geocities.co.jp/Athlete-Athene/6102/
(Japanese)
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Swiss Gasherbrum II Expedition 2003
Axel Wegmann's team did not summit Gasherbrum II this summer.
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Spanish Gasherbrum II Expedition 2003
Jose Luis Rebanal led a successful climb on GII
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Austria/Europe Guenter Steinitair-Memorian Gasherbrum II Expedition 2003
Gerhad Gritsch led a successful ascent of GII.
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Italian Karakorum GB-II Expedition 2003
Claudio Inselvini led the expedition - no summits.
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Korean Karakorum Gasherbrum II Expedition 2003
Han Wang Yong led a successful ascent of GII. He and his team then
went onto to Broad Peak, where he became the 11th person to summit all
the world's 14, 8000m peaks.
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