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Summer 2007 Karakoram expeditions
Updated: July 17, 2007
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes Did we forget you or your friends? Mail us at:team@explorersweb.com Alert: Pakistan’s Federal Minister of Tourism Nilofar Bakhtiar has launched the “Visit Pakistan 2007” campaign, which includes a series of measures focused on promoting tourism in the country. Summer climbing fees for 2007 are as following: Zero royalty fee for peaks up to 6,500 meters; 10 percent royalty fee on mountains situated in Chitral, Gilgit, and Ghizer except on Spantik/Golden Peak; 50 percent discounted royalty fee on all other peaks, already applied during 2005 and 2006, to continue during 2007. Source: Explorersweb.com / Saltoro Summits
K2 - 8611m
Climbing permit 6000 USD for a team of seven, 1000 USD each additional climber.
Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov for a new route on K2’s north face, alpine style
Denis has had this dream since 1988 and now he and fellow Kazakh Serguey Samoilov will give it a shot, using the same style they did on Broad Peak (2005) and Manaslu (2006): Just the two of them, on-sight, in alpine style, doing new routes on 8,000-ers.
Denis Urubko has summited eleven 8000ers and many other major peaks in the Himalayas and Central Asia. Serguey, 50, was new to 8,000+ altitude when he joined Denis for the climb on Broad Peak in 2005. The expedition was a jackpot, followed by an encore on Manaslu last year - both climbers were awarded by ExWeb and Piolet d'Or.
Polish & Slovak K2 West Face & Nanga Parbat double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Piotr Pustelnik retired last year, but his two mates from 2006’s Himalayan Trilogy expedition are back with a double-header.
Polish Piotr Morawski along with Slovaks Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold will attempt a first ascent on K2’s west face, after acclimatizing on Nanga Parbat's Diamir side. Piotr and Peter were awarded Best of ExWeb last year for outstanding Annapurna and Broad Peak climbs. After cutting his teeth on the Karakoram Spires; Slovak Dodo Kopold entered the death zone earlier this year by summiting first Cho Oyu and then Shisha Pangma (via its south face) where he lost his climbing buddy in a fall. Morawski’s website (Polish): www.piotrmorawski.com Hamor’s website: www.peterhamor.sk Dodo's expeditions website: www.himalaya2007.expedition.sk
Kazakh National Team for K2’s NW ridge
EXPEDITION ONGOING
This Kazakh/Russian team targets the northwest ridge on the Chinese side of the mountain. Young star climbers Maxut (Zhuma) Zhumayev and Vassily (Vaso) Pivtsov have summited eleven 8000ers. The two were the first non-sherpa climbers to reach the summit of Everest this season (no O2) and were awarded Best of ExWeb for a double header of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna last year. Barely 30 years old, the two Kazakhs walked to the peaks and climbed each in one single push. Russian Serguey Bogomolov is joining this dream team with twelve 8000ers summited and following a tragedy on K2's Abruzzi Spur last year when an avalanche killed his team mates. Baglan Zhunussov and coach Ervand Iljinsky lead the expedition.
Russian K2 West Face Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
This is another star team; compiled of Piolet d'Or and ExWeb Award winning climbers who forged new routes up Everest's North Face and Jannu a few years back. This time, they hope to complete the first direct ascent up the unclimbed west face of K2. The 16 mountaineers climb without supplementary O2 in Himalaya-style: Working the route divided into four teams. Seasoned climbers are mixed with rookies, the latter with extensive experience from Central Asia’s 7,000ers under their belts. The expedition is bossed by Victor Kozlov who also led the first ascent to Lhotse Middle in 2001 and the new route up the center of Everest’s north face.
Expedition’s website (Russian/English): www.k2-8611.ru
Swiss Jean Troillet's foursome: K2, GI, GII, and Broad Peak
Swiss mountain guide Jean Troillet has applied for a climbing permit on all four Karakoram's 8000ers! Together with Fred Roux and Olivier Roduit, he is attempting both Gasherbrums first and then head for Broad and K2. The team also includes South African adventurer Mike Horn, who has never climbed before.
Troillet’s website (French/English): www.troillet.ch Mike Horn’s website: www.mikehorn.com
Austrian/German Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits for K2 and Broad Peak double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After climbing different peaks this spring, the ExWeb Award winning newlyweds are back together, attempting K2 from the Cesen route, following an acclimatization pre-climb up Broad Peak.
Last year, the couple summited Kangchenjunga which became Gerlinde’s ninth 8000er, and Ralf’s eleventh. In spring this year Ralf's achieved his 12th 8000er on Manaslu, while Gerlinde narrowly escaped the avalanche on Dhaulagiri that killed Ricardo Valencia and Santiago Sagaste. Gerlinde - who is sharing the world top league for female 8000+ climbers with Nives Meroi (9 summits) and Edurne Pasaban (8 summits) - has climbed all her nine 8,000ers without O2, often choosing difficult routes. She has however never attempted K2 before, and reached only BP's fore summit; Ralf has already summited both peaks. Info on the expedition on Ralf’s Amical website (German): www.amical.de Gerlinde's website (German): www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at
American Shared Summits: Chris Warner and Don Bowie back for a K2/Broad Peak double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Americans Chris Warner and Don Bowie returned to Broad Peak and K2 this summer after a previous attempt in 2005. The expedition was gunning for a new route on K2’s east spur - which proved too exposed to avalanches. They changed for a new line to the left of the Abruzzi, but finally settled for the Abruzzi Spur normal route.
Chris Warner, owner of Earth Treks, is emerging as one of America's top high altitude climbers. Out on his third attempt for a Broad Peak+K2 double-header, Chris has earlier summited Everest, Lhotse, Shisha Pangma, Cho Oyu, and opened new routes on Shivling and Ama Dablam. Don Bowie teamed up with Polish Piotr Pustelnik on Cho Oyu and Annapurna last year. Other climbers in the current expedition are Pasquale (PV) Scaturro, Bruce Normand, and BC manager Joel Shalowitz. Expedition's website: sharedsummits.com Chris' Earth Treks website: www.earthtreksclimbing.com
USA International K2 Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Following attempts in 2000 and 2005, American Fabrizio Zangrilli is once again leading an international team on K2.
Czech Radek and Zdenek: One for Broad, the other for both Gasherbrums, both for K2
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Czech Radek Jaros and Zdenek Hruby hoped to climb K2 via the Cesen (Basque) route; then Zdenek would attempt Broad Peak, while Radek went for both Gasherbrums. When Radek was evacuated from K2 BC with a smashed finger; Zdenek joined a larger Czech team also climbing K2 via the Cesen route.
Radek's website (Czech/English): www.radekjaros.cz
Czech K2 & Broad Peak double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Leopold Sulovsky (53) is leading nine other climbers on this double-header. Team members are Josef Lukas, Pavol Luptak, Milan Sedlack, Sliva Radim, Ivan Zednicek, Libor Uher, Petr Valchar, Radvan Marek and Kamil Bortel.
The team started with K2's Cesen route. Expedition’s website (Czech): www.horolezci.cz/k2
Polish Anna Czerwinska for a K2 encore - plus Broad Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Following an attempt in 2005, veteran climber Anna Czerwinska is leading a strong Polish team for a second attempt on K2. Teaming up with Anna is her regular climbing mate Dariusz Zaluski, plus Jacek Teler (who also attempted K2 last year), Jerzy Natkanski, Olaf Jarzemsk, Nazar Gholamhossein, and Georgian climber Gia Tortladze.
Czerwinska's team will attempt Broad Peak after K2.
Portuguese International K2 expedition: Joao Garcia for his 9th, 8000er
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Portuguese Joao Garcia is leading a team on K2 this summer. Portuguese journalist Aurelio Faria, French Johan Perrier, Belgian Maurits Vreugde, and Nepalese Nuru Wangchhu Sherpa are joining the team.
The team plans to climb via the Abruzzi Spur route. Expedition’s blog (Portuguese): sic.sapo.pt/online/blogs/k2
French Hugues d'Aubarede: K2, take two
EXPEDITION ONGOING
French climber Hugues d'Aubarede is back on K2 after an attempt last year. Climbing with local high-altitude porters Karim and Jalal on the Cesen route, Hugues collaborates with Leopold Sulovsky's Czech team, sharing a climbing permit with a Czech climber and two Danes. D'Aubarede has previously summited GII (1999), Everest (2004) and Nanga Parbat (2005).
Hungarian K2 & GI Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After a previous attempt in 2005, Eross Zsolt is back to K2, again as member of a Hungarian team led by Lajos Kollar. Also in the team are Laszlo Mecs, Karalin Csollany, Anita Ugyan, Istvan Tarjanyi, Laszlo Janos Voros, Balint Juhasz, and Jozsef Csikos.
After K2 the expedition will move to GI in order to complete a double-header. News on the expedition (Hungarian): www.nemzetisport.hu/K2expedicio_index.php Austrian OeAV Broad Peak Golden Jubilee and K2 Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Gerfried Goeschl leads one of the largest expeditions in an anniversary climb on Broad Peak, first scaled by Austrian climbers. The current expedition includes no less than 35 climbers. 10 of will also attempt K2.
The expedition officially kicked off on the "Night of the First Ascent,” a commemoratory party organized by the Broad Peak Club in Salzburg, Austria, on Saturday, June 9, 2007 – exactly 50 years after Wintersteller, Schmuck, Buhl and Diemberger bagged the first BP summit in a remarkable push without O2 or high altitude porters. The climbers also expect Wintersteller’s visit in BC during the expedition. Broad Peak.org (German/English): www.broadpeak.org Gerfried’s website: www.gerfriedgoeschl.com
Italian K2 & K3 double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
An Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Pompili is attempting Broad Peak, hoping to move to K2 afterwards. Other members are Italians Adriano Dalcin, Marco Tossutti, Simone La Terra, and Alessandra Canestri. They will be supported by climbing Sherpas Ang Ngima and Dachhamba Sherpa, from Nepal.
Pompili’s website (Italian): www.paesieimmagini.it
Russian Kuban expedition for a Broad Peak + K2 double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A Russian team led by Yuriy Agafonov (expedition leader) and Ivan Aristov (climbing leader) is attempting both Broad Peak and K2 this summer. Other members are Victor Afanasyev, Alexander Eliseev, Alexey Yakovenko, Oleg Afanasyev, Roman Gubanov, Nikolay Kadoshnikov, Andrey Filimonov, Alexandr Fukolov, Andrev Glushkov, Eduard Goncharov, Sergey Dudko, and Alexey Kuznetsov.
During the last week of June, the team divided into two groups and launched a summit push, eventually aborted due to excess of snow on the barely fixed route. The climbers broke trail all the way from High Camp, until the late hour forced them back. Since then, the expedition has moved to K2. Expedition’s website (Russian): www.k2kuban.ru
Slovenian K2 and Broad Peak Expedition
Irena Mrak is appointed as leader of an Slovenian team attempting both K2 and Broad Peak. Other members are fellow Slovenians Drago Frelih, Mojca Svajger, Andrej Zorman, Benjamin Blazic, Franz Xaver Seiler, Janez Levec, Josef Stiller, Kazimir Perko, Ludvik Golob, Matej Kovacic, Mira Zoric and Jernej Brescak.
Italian K2 Freedom Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Daniele Nardi is leading an Italian team attempting K2 without supplementary O2. Nardi summited Everest from its north side back in 2004. Also in the team are Pietro Desanctis, Stefano Zavka, Mario Vielmo and Michele Fait.
Expedition's website (Italian): www.mountainfreedom.it/main/k2freedom
Korean Dynamic Busan K2 Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
This Korean team led by Hong Bo Seong is attempting K2 via the Abruzzi Spur. The team also includes Korean climbers Kim Chang Ho, Park Ju Won, Ha Young Ho, Kim Gil Woo, Shin Yongwoo, and Kim Jin Tae, plus three Nepalese climbers: Pasang Tshring Sherpa, Nan Temba Bhote and Chhiring Bhote.
South Korean Female K2 Expedition
Six female climbers, under the leadership of Eun Sun Oh will attempt K2 this season.
Broad Peak - 8051m
Climbing permit 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
K2 and Broad Peak double-headers:
Jean Troillet, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits, Chris Warner and Don Bowie, Austrian OeAV Broad Peak Golden Jubilee, Czech Radek and Zdenek, Italian (Giuseppe Pompili), Russian Kuban, Czech (Leopold Sulovsky), Slovenian (Irena Mrak), Anna Czerwinska. Check K2 section for details. Other Broad Peak expeditions:
Italian Silvio Mondinelli for his last 8000er
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Will Italian Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli become number 13 on the prestigious list of climbers with all the 14, 8000ers summited? He has only Broad Peak to go - which he hopes to summit this summer. Mondinelli is climbing together with regular mate Marco Confortola, after both summited Cho Oyu as a spring season training. Also in the team are Roberto Manni, fresh from summiting Lhotse, plus Alberto Magliano, Luca Poggiani, and Giuliano Radici. Gnaro’s website (Italian): www.gnaromondinelli.it Marco’s website (Italian): www.marcoconfortola.it
Veikka Gustaffson's ultimate triple-header: BP+GI+GII
EXPEDITION TENTATIVE
Last year Finnish Veikka Gustaffson announced plans for a triple-header on the peaks that remain on his 14, 8000ers quest: Broad and both Gasherbrums. However, there is no confirmation yet on Veikka actually traveling to Pakistan this summer. Veikka’s website (Finnish): portaali.retkilehti.fi/veikka_lue.php?uutisid=34
German/Austrian Amical Alpin Broad Peak Expedition
EXPEDITION COMPLETED
Members of a guided team launched by Amical achieved the firsts 8000+meter summits this season. Austrians Julia Walser and Reinhard Köfler, German Ernst-Robert Zauner and expedition leader Andreas Bucher (also from Austria), summited Broad Peak on June 24 at 7.00 p.m., according to the expedition's home team. Amical Alpin’s website (German):www.amical.de
Spanish Carlos Soria back to Broad Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After attempting Ama Dablam in spring, veteran Carlos Soria is leading a small Spanish team of long-time friends (Marcelo, Rafael and Sito) on Broad Peak.
American Nicholas Rice's Xpedition 8000
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Nicholas Rice will be returning to Pakistan after a successful ascent on Gasherbrum II last year. He plans to climb the peak independently. Nicholas Rice’s website: www.nickrice.us
Mexicans Badia and Mauricio, plus Jorge Salazar
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Mexican climber Badia Bonilla and Mauricio Lopez are back to the Karakoram, hoping to add Broad Peak to their list of 8000ers summited. They've previously climbed Makalu, Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Gasherbrum II, plus Shisha Pangma’s central summit.
Badia and Mauricio are sharing climbing permit with international climbers and another Mexican: Jorge Salazar, from Veracruz. Badia & Mauricio's website (Spanish) : www.unaparejaenascenso.com Jorge Salazar's Veracruz al Himalaya website (Spanish) : www.verhimalaya.com
Colombian Fernando Gonzalez Rubio, from Annapurna to Broad Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Colombian climber Fernando Gonzalez Rubio, fresh from a successful yet risky ascent on Annapurna, is on his second attempt on Broad Peak. Should he succeed this time, it would become his 8th 8000er.
Other climbers listed in the international permit are American William Bernard Zachary, Spaniards Juan Carlos and Felix Gomez, German Dirk Grunert, and Argentinean Carlos Herman Wilke. Fernando's website (Spanish) : fernandogonzalezrubio.com
Spanish AL Filo de lo Imposible team: Edurne Pasaban on her 14, 8000ers quest
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After attempting Annapurna in spring Edurne Pasaban (eight 8000ers summited), is heading for Broad Peak. Teaming up with her is Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo, who already summited Broad some years ago. Annapurna became Ivan's 13th 8000er in spring this year. Also members of the current Broad Peak team are Asier Izaguirre, Ferran Latorre, Marron, Valenti Giro, Esther Sabadell, and Juanjo Garra. Edurne’s website (Spanish / Euskera): www.edurnepasaban.net Ivan’s website (Spanish): www.ivanvallejo.com
Japanese Hirotaka Takeuchi’s rising sun: Going for his 10th and 11th 8000ers
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Japanese Hirotaka Takeuchi is attempting GII (as member in a guided team launched by Amical outfitter) and Broad Peak this summer. Should he summit both, he would end the season with 11 of the Great 14 under his belt. Earlier this year, Hiro summited Manaslu with regular climbing mate Ralf Dujmovits.
Amical Alpin’s website (German): www.amical.de Hiro's blog (Japanese): weblog.hochi.co.jp/takeuchi
Spanish Carlos Pauner: Getting over Broad Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After being forced back just meters shy from the summit on two previous attempts, Spaniard Carlos Pauner wants to get done with the Pakistani peak. Teaming up with a small team of friends (Jose Villalta, Marta Alejandre and Alberto Sanmartin), Carlos reached Broad Peak's BC by June 12. With Pauner is Ecuadorian climber Santiago Quintero, attempting Broad Peak in spite of having lost all his toes to frostbite on a previous Aconcagua climb. Pauner's website (Spanish): www.carlospauner.com Santiago Quintero's website (Spanish): www.santiagoquintero.com
Spanish (Basque) Broad Peak Expedition
This team from the Spanish Basque Country is led by Andoni Urbistondo Aramburu. Also in the team are Jose Ramon Lasa Berasategi, Javier Echevarria Arregui, Julian Celayeta Mallavia, Iban Cirza Marcos, Inaki Aldama, and Pedro Jose Garcia Aguirre.
Spanish (Catalan) Broad Peak Expedition
A further Spanish team, this one from Catalonia, is heading for Broad Peak. Members are Everest summiteer Joan Cardona, Blanca Ardanaz and Carles Cangueral.
Russian Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
This strong team is led by Nickolay Zakharov, multiple-winner of All-Russia Mountaineering Championships. Most of the young team members are on their first 8000+ climbs - except for Vladimir Arkhipov, who took part on the Russian expedition which opened a new line on Everest’s north face in 2004. In February 2007 the Krasnoyarsk team climbed Ak Su peak via its “Ruchkin” route (at 6b Russian degree, one of the most difficult on the peak), in 8.5 days. Before facing Broad Peak, the expedition will climb the Trango Towers.
Wielicki's Polish International Broad Peak Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Polish 14x8000er summiteer Krzystof Wielicki is back to the Karakoram, after attempting Nanga Parbat in winter earlier this year. Now he is leading a large team on Broad Peak.
HiMountain’s website: www.himountain.eu
Austrian Georg Kronthaler Expedition
Last summer, Austrian Markus Kronthaler perished on Broad peak while descending from the summit. Now his brother wants to bring his remains down for a burial.
Georg Kronthaler's team on Broad Peak will include Stefan Lackner, Paul Koller, and five porters. Kronthaler’s website (German): www.weltderberge.com
Russian Broad Peak Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A further Russian team, led by Nikolay Zakharov, is aiming for Broad Peak. Members are Vladimir Arkhipov, Evgeny Belyaev, Sergey Cherezov, Yury Glazyrin, Oleg Khvostenko, Aleksandr Kukharev, Alexander Kuznetsov, Andrey Litvinov, Alexander Mikhalitsin, Denis Prokofyev, and Alexander Yanushevich.
Russian Valery Evgrafov for Broad Peak
Valery Evgrafov applied for a Broad Peak's climbing permit earlier this year, valid for a three-people team. He planned to arrive in Pakistan on June 15.
Russian-Baltic Broad Peak Expedition
Alexey Paskhin was appointed leader of a large expedition comprising Russian, Latvian and Estonian climbers.
Slovak & Czech International Expedition
Slovak Ladislav Svendek is the leader of a 12-member expedition consisting of fellow Slovak and Czech climbers on Broad Peak this summer. Serbia Broad Peak Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Milivoj Erdeljan is leading Dren Mandic, Vladimir Raskovic, Iso Planic and Predrag Zagorac on Broad Peak.
Iranian Broad Peak Expedition
Auob Aminoroayaei is leading a large Iranian team on Broad Peak, including female climber Leyla Roshanzamir. The expedition planned to arrive in Pakistan on June 15.
Nanga Parbat - 8125m
Climbing permit 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
Nanga Parbat double-headers:
Polish & Slovakia K2 West Face & Nanga Parbat. Check details in the K2 section. Other Nanga Parbat expeditions: French Jean-Noel Urban: Nanga Parbat Ski Descent
EXPEDITION ONGOING
French extreme skier Jean-Noel Urban hopes to repeat Hans Kammerlander’s feat, by summiting the peak via the Kinshofer route and then ski down to BC. J-N is teaming up with Nicolas Brun.
Urban’s website (French/English): www.expeditions-urban.com Korean Nanga Parbat Diamir Face Expedition
EXPEDITION TENTATIVE
Korean Oh Hee-Joon (with ten 8000ers summited) applied for a climbing permit for Nanga Parbat this year. His team was to include fellow Koreans Oh Soon Bum, Oh Sang Su, Kim Soo Youn, and Hwang Sang Ik, as well as Serap Jangbu Sherpa (also very close to summit all fourteen 8000ers) and Nepalese Dhurba Raj Rai.
However, Oh (37) sadly perished this year, along with Lee Hyun-jo, 34. Both members of the Park Young-Seok expedition fell to their deaths while attempting a new route on the highly difficult SW face of Everest. It is not confirmed whether the rest of the team will follow through on the Nanga Parbat climb. Serap Jangbu's website: www.serapjangbu.com Polish Kinga Baranowska & Spaniard Roberto Rojo
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Polish Kinga Baranowska, who last year shared team with the Himalayan Trilogy expedition on Broad Peak, is attempting Nanga together with Spanish partner Roberto “Gorri” Rojo.
In 2006, Kinga's expedition mates Piotr Pustelnik and Peter Hamor summited Broad Peak on July 8 – Piotr Morawski topped out on July 9. Meanwhile she climbed independently, eventually joining Roberto's Spanish team for the final summit push. Gorri and Kinga stepped together on Broad's summit on July 22 - and hope to do the same this year on Nanga Parbat, after climbing via the Kinshofer route. Chilean Nanga Parbat 2007 Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Carlos Bascou is leading a nine-member team on Nanga Parbat’s Kinshofer route, Diamir side. Other members are Rodrigo Echeverria, Michael Soldner, Ernesto Olivares, Francisco Munoz, Cristian Garcia, Francisco Larrain, and Pablo Gutierrez Cheetham.
Expedition's website: www.nangaparbat.cl Chilean USACH Nanga Parbat Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
This six-member team led by Luis Alvarez hopes to add another 8,000er to Santiago de Chile University (USACH) mountaineering club’s list, after succeeding on Broad Peak and GI. The expedition pays tribute to Claudio Galvez, a team member who perished during the team’s previous climb on Hidden Peak, back in 2001. Their long term goal is to achieve all the big 14. Also members are Andres Jorquera, Adolfo Dell’ Orto, Fernando Millar, Alex Cattan, and Jaime Cartagena. USACH's expedition website (Spanish): www.nangaparbat2007.cl Belorussian Nanga Parbat Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A Belorussian team including Alexander Godlevsky, Victor Lutov, Serguey Stacevitch, Vladislav Kagan, Mikhail Melnikov, Alexander Maximenja, and Serguey Belous is aiming for Nanga's Kinshofer route.
Gasherbrum I (8080m) + Gasherbrum II (8034m) double-headers
Climbing permit for each peak: 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
Gasherbrum + other 8000er double-headers:
Jean Troillet's K2, GI, GII, and Broad Peak foursome; Veikka Gustaffson's BP, GI, GII triple. Check details in Broad Peak and K2 section. Other Gasherbrum double-headers:
Czech GI, GII & GIII Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Czech climber Josef Nezerka is leading a huge 28-member team on Gasherbrums massif. The Czechs hope to summit GI and GII, both over 8000 meters, and also GIII, a rarely attempted 7,952 meter first summited in 1975 by an all-women Polish team led by Wanda Rutkiewicz.
Josef Nezerka has previously summited Annapurna (1988), Nanga Parbat (1993), and Everest in 1996.
International Field touring Alpine GI+G2 Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
American Ryan Waters is leading a team launched by Australia-based outfitter Field Touring Alpine on both Gasherbrums. Assistant guides are American Dave Elmore and Australian Blair Falahey. Team members are Warwick Barnes (Australia), Vladimir Grechka (USA), Mary Adams (Australia), Paulo Gomes (Portugal),and Grant Else (Canada).
Waters (Everest, Cho Oyu and Broad Peak summiteer) will then lead another team on Cho Oyu in fall. After the Gasherbrums, Dave Elmore may attempt Spantik, since he has applied for a climbing permit for that peak. Field Touring Alpine: www.fieldtouring.com
International Project Himalaya GI+G2 Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After Everest in spring, Jamie McGuinness will be leading a team launched by his New Zealand-based outfitting company Project Himalaya on the Gasherbrums. McGuinness has applied for a climbing permit valid for both GI and GII.
Project Himalaya: www.project-himalaya.com
Slovakia GI & GII Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Peter Sperka is leading Tomas Petrik, Stefan Hrdina, Jozef Brejack, Peter Puchy, and Anton Kachnic on both Gasherbrums.
Expedition's website (Slovak): www.gasherbrum.sk
Romanian Alex Gavan (Nangpa La video) GI & GII double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
One year after shooting a video of Tibetan refugees being killed by Chinese patrols on Nangpa La, Romanian climber Alex Gavan (25) is back to the higher mountains, aiming for GI and GII.
Together with long-time friend Andrei Nan (27), Alex will go again without O2 or support. “The strategy is to first climb Gasherbrum II in expedition style and then climb Gasherbrum I in one single push from the base camp to the summit and back,” Gavan said prior to departure. Alex and Andrei are members in the International Poril expedition, which also includes Swedish, Danish, Georgian, Iranian, Polish and Spanish climbers. Alex's expedition website: www.gasherbrum.cloudclimbing.ro
Japan Team UKYO Expedition
Eiichi Usami (leader) and Ukyo Katayama are attempting both Gasherbrums, supported by Nepalese climbers Phura Chhere Sherpa and Tul Bahadur Tamang.
Czech Republic Expedition 2007
Pavel Matousek is leading 11 fellow Czech climbers on both GI and GII this summer.
Italian Roby Piantoni's GI & GII Expedition
Roberto 'Roby' Piantoni is leading Marco Astori, Gloria Brighenti, Paolo Martinelli and Nepalese Dawa Sherpa on both Gasherbrums this summer.
Piantoni's website (Italian): www.robypiantoni.it
Spanish GI & GII Expedition
EXPEDITION TENTATIVE
Juan Antonio Olivieri is appointed leader of a Spanish team for both Gasherbrums this summer. However, the expedition included Jorge Egocheaga, seriously frostbitten on Dhaulagiri in spring this year. It is not yet confirmed whether there are changes in the expedition schedule.
Gasherbrum I - 8080m
Climbing permit 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
GI double-headers:
Hungarian K2 & GI Expedition plus the above GI & GI doubles. Other GI expeditions:
"Marios" Merelli & Panzeri for Hidden Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Italians Mario Merelli and Mario Panzeri arrived in Pakistan on July 1st, aiming for GI (Hidden Peak). “Memories of Sergio Dalla Longa (perished on Dhaulagiri in spring) will remain in our minds and in our hearts during the entire expedition," Merelli said before departing. "Sergio had hoped to join us on this upcoming trip.”
Merelli's website (Italian): www.mariomerelli.it China-Pakistan Joint G-I Expedition: Bianba Zaxi back from the dead
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A Chinese 10-member team, led by Sam Drug and supported by the Alpine Club of Pakistan, is going for GI. Among the members is Tibetan 12x8000ers summiteer Bianba Zaxi, who nearly perished in a previous attempt on the peak.
In 2005, the Chinese expedition was dramatically aborted before even setting foot in the Karakoram: A landslide buried the expedition's convoy while driving from Skardu to Askole, and left Bianba badly injured while killing his mate, Rena. The falling rocks hit Bianba in the face and neck. He is still heavily scarred and has been left deaf in one ear. On the current expedition, Zaxi is filming a documentary but stated that he might attempt the summit if he feels alright once in BC. Also climbing is Rena’s widow JiJi. Other team members are: Xue Wen Xian, Tse Ring Dorji, Ben Ba Drashi, Phur Bu Tsering (Secretary), Loze (Lo Tse, Lotse), Ban Ba Dhundrup, and Suo Lang Zha Xi, plus Pakistani climbers Nisar Hussain, Muhammad Nazir, Muhammad Hussain and Hassan Asad. Australian Gasherbrum I Expedition
Zac Zaharias will be leading six other climbers on Hidden Peak this year.
French Gasherbrum I Expedition
Gilles Roussellier has been appointed leader of a large French climbing team on Hidden Peak this summer.
Gasherbrum II - 8034m
Climbing permit 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
Check above for double headers. Other GII expeditions:
Spaniards and Italians on the wild side of GII
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After an attempt on Everest’s Hornbein Couloir last fall, Juan Vallejo is climbing GII from its north, Chinese side. He is teaming up with three fellow Basque climbers: Jose Carlos Tamayo, Mikel Zabalza and Josu Bereciartua. A strong Italian team of Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi and Michele Compagnoni are also attempting this side. Shortly after reaching BC, the Italian climbers started acclimatizing up a snowy spur, whilst the Spaniards set sights on a route further to the left - an itinerary attempted some years back by Nives Meroi and Romano Benet.
Amical Gasherbum II Expedition - including Hirotaka Takeuchi
EXPEDITION ONGOING
The 10-member expedition launched by German outfitter Amical on GII, including Hirotaka Takeuchi, is led by Dirk Groeger.
Japanese Hirotaka Takeuchi is attempting GII and Broad Peak this summer. Should he summit both, he would end the season with 11 of the Great 14 under his belt. Earlier this year, Hiro summited Manaslu with regular climbing mate Ralf Dujmovits. Amical Alpin’s website (German):www.amical.de Hiro's blog (Japanese):weblog.hochi.co.jp/takeuchi Valles al Gasherbrum: Catalans for GII
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A Catalan (Spanish) team departed on June 23 for Pakistan, where they hope to climb GII. Members are Sara Novell, Carles Babiloní, Marçal Rocías, Jordi Saurí, Mireia Giralt and Carles Garcia.
Expedition's website (Catalan): www.vallesalg2.com Kari Kobler's GII guided teams
EXPEDITION ONGOING
The Switzerland-based expedition outfitter is launching two teams on GII. A 7-member team led by Michael Nellen, and a 12-member team led by Bruno Rankwiler - which includes 9 Swiss clients and two Nepalese Sherpas.
Expedition's website (German): www.kobler-partner.ch German Gasherbrum II Expedition
A German team led by Sorin Mircea Nistor hopes to climb GII this year. Other members are Tassilo Seitz, Chirstian Rottenegger, Alexander Dieter Scherl, Helmut Hack, Stefan Oliver Gotschke, Anereas Seiler, Jeffrey Ray Gellner, and Francesc Xavier Arias.
7000 – 8000 meter peaks
7501-8000m peaks: Climbing permit 2000 USD for a team of seven, 250 USD for each additional climber.
7001-7500m peaks: Climbing permit 1250 USD for a team of seven, 150 USD each additional climber.
Kunyang Chhish – 7852m
Russian Babanov + Canadian Denaley for Kunyang Chhish
EXPEDITION ABORTED
Twice Piolet d’Or winner Valeri Babanov was back to Pakistan hoping to climb Kunyang Chhish East (7400m) ann Pumari Chhish South (7350m) alpine style, together with Canadian Patrick Delaney. After acclimatizing on a nearby peak, Valeri reported the expedition was over. “We didn't even start to climb Khunyang Chhish because my partner was not mentally ready for it,” Babanov stated.
The Russian climber, currently living in Canada, went solo on a new 1,100m long line on Chomo Lonzo North (Nepal) last year. After a bad night out, he reached the summit ridge at 9 p.m. on May 17, in rapidly deteriorating weather and turned back short of the top. Babanov's website (Russian/English): www.babanov.com
Japanese Kunyang Chhish Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Japanese Tobita Kazuo and (female) Reoko Tarasawa are aiming for the 7852m Kunyang Chhish.
Masherbrum – 7821m
USA Russian International Masherbrum Expedition
Professor Lev Loffe is leading a team on Masherbrum. No route has been yet confirmed. Also members of the team are Russians Ivan Ducharin, Elena Lebedva, Alexander Novik and Yuri Soyfer; and Kazakh Adilet Imambekov.
Japan Tochigi Masherbrum Expedition
A second team, this one from Japan, has applied for permit in order to attempt Masherbrum: Akira Kumekawa will be leading Kazunari Ouechi, Norio Karayanagi and Toshimi Sakuma on the peak.
Rakaposhi – 7788m
Japanese Ichiro Hosoda alone on Rakaposhi
Japanese Ichiro Hosoda applied for a one-person climbing permit in order to attempt Rakaposhi earlier this year. He plans to arrive in Pakistan rather late in the season, on Jul 23.
Kampire Dior – 7680m
Polish Kampire Dior Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A team of young Polish climbers are in Pakistan with a double goal: Kampire Dior (7,680m) and Yaskuk Peak (6,667m). Members are Piotr Pawlus (leader), Rafal Krol, Tomasz Slodnik, Romuald Palma, Tomaz Wawrzyniak, Pawel Juszczyszyn, and Robert Szymczak.
Shispare – 7611m
Japanese Yuka Komatsu back to the Karakoram - 1,000 meters lower than K2
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Last year’s K2 summiteer Yuka Komatsu is heading for Shispare, a 7,611 meters-tall peak which the 25-year-old female climber will attempt together with climbing and working-mate Hiroshi Iwazaki – another young gun at 28 years.
Pumari Chhish - 7492m
French Graziani & Trommsdorff's first ascent of the south face
EXPEDITION COMPLETED
In June, 2007 French climbers Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff achieved the first ascent of the peak's south face, alpine style. Yannick had applied for a permit in order to climb Nanga Parbat, as member of a French team going for the mountain's Rakhiot side.
Info on the climb on FFME's website: www.ffme.fr/expedition/ARTICLE.php?id=1354
Ultar Sar – 7388m
Americans Colin Haley and Jed Brown: From Antarctica to Karakoram
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Americans Colin Haley and Jed Brown have been granted a Mugs Stump award, providing them with funds to attempt a first ascent of the Hidden Pillar (Southwest Pillar) of Ultar Sar (7,388m), located in Hunza Valley. The pillar, which rises 3,200m from base to summit, has been attempted three times before. Jed is currently fresh from a trip to Antarctica as a member in Damien Gildea’s expedition.
Momhil Sar – 7324m
Italian Focus Momhil Sar Expedition
Mauro Penasa has applied for a climbing permit in order to climb Momhil Sar, along with a seven member team.
Gasherbrum V – 7321m
French Karakoram Expedition - for the last Gasherbrum
A large French team led by Jean Pierre Revoil applied for a permit in order to climb Gasherbrum V. Arrival in Pakistan is planned for July 7.
K6 – 7282m
USA/Slovenia K6 Expedition: Steve House back in Charakusa valley
American Piolet d'Or winner Steve House will lead regular climbing-mates Vince Anderson (USA) and Marko Prezelj (Slovenia) on K-6 West. Vince received the Piolet d'Or together with Steve in 2006; Prezelj was awarded with the "Golden Ice-axe" earlier this year.
Info on Steve on Grivel North America: www.grivelnorthamerica.com
Canada K6 Expedition
Canadian Maxime Turgeon, teaming up with another partner (probably Yan Mongrain), has applied for a permit to climb K6. The team is aiming for the peak’s north face. The team hopes to open a new route on this face up to the peak’s west summit. Turgeon, who last year attempted Latok I with no luck, has now obtained a Mugs Stump grant to fund the upcoming K6 expedition.
Diran Peak - 7266m
Czech Diran Peak Expedition 2007
Tomas Vleck is leading fellow Czech climbers Libor Balik, Martin Cerny, Martin Biedermann, Jan Kubac, and Slovak Miroslav Stepan on Diran Peak, rather late in the season: The expedition's arrival in Pakistan is scheduled for July 30.
Swiss/French Diran Peak Expedition
Nathalie Jaquet and Max Pinard are also attempting Diran Peak this summer.
Latok I - 7151m
All against Latok I: Americans Josh Wharton and Bean Bowers
Last year Latok I defeated Maxime Turgeon and the Benegas brothers (who actually had fought in vain for three straight seasons on its north face’s snow-loaded slopes). In 2007 Americans Josh Wharton and Bean Bowers will try their luck on the north ridge. The 2,450m-long ridge, comprising high difficulties on mixed terrain, has been attempted several times since the ’70s– but never completed.
USA Latok I Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Wharton and Bowers won’t be alone on Latok’s BC. American Mark Richey, Steven Swenson and Doug Chabot are also attempting the peak since mid June.
Link Sar - 7041m
USA Link Sar & K13 (6,666m) Expedition
EXPEDITION TENTATIVE
American Steven Swenson, Doug Chabot and Mark Richey had applied for a climbing permit on Link Shar and K13. However, as they arrived in Pakistan and were briefed at ACP's headquarters, they confirmed only an upcoming attempt on Latok I.
Spantik- 7027m
Japanese Spantik Expedition
A small Japanese team led by Fujimoto Noboru was the first to apply this year for a permit to climb on Spantik.
Kuraoka's Japan Spantik Expedition
Also Hiroyuki Kuraoka has applied for a permit in order to climb Spantik.
Japan Spantik Expedition
A second, larger Japanese team, this one led by Kondo Kazuyoshi, is also attempting Spantik this summer. The team includes ten Japanese climbers and a Nepalese.
Austrian Glemmer Spantik Expedition: Climbing & BASE jumping
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Austrians Hannes Niederseer and Gernot Graf hope to climb Spantik and then BASE jump from the summit.
Polish/Czech Spantik Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A Polish/Czech 4-member team led by Radek Vana is attempting Spantik (7,027m). Also in the team are Jan Skuhravy, Onderej Mandula, and Narek Heythum.
Italy Climbing Spantik Expedition
Maurizio Giordani is leading fellow Italians Nancy Paoletto, Fulvio Bevilacqua, Stefano Deavi, Luigi Milanese, Lorenzo Righi, Giorgio Tamiozzo, and Paolo Ferrai Paolo on Spantik.
Austrian Spantik Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
French Patricia Vicent and Norwegian Anniken Binz are giving Spantik a try this summer.
Austrian Spantik Expedition
Austrian climbers Josef Tandlinger, Christian Jauk and Paul Kupsa are also climbing Spantik.
Spanish Spantik Expedition
The only Spaniards on Spantik this year will be Javier Campos and Maria Jose Cardell.
Austrian Spantik Expedition
A second, larger Austrian expedition has also set sights on Spantik. Johann Thurner will be leading this 10-member team.
Pamir Sar - 7016m
Japanese Pamir Sar Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Japanese Hiroshi Iwazaki and Nobuteru Kazahara are climbing Pamir Sar (7,016m) this summer.
6000 - 7000 meter peaks
6501-7000m peaks: Climbing permit 700 USD for a team of seven, 100 USD each additional climber. 6000 - 6500m peaks: No climbing permit required.
New Zealand Women's Bekka Brakai Chhok Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Patricia Deavoll and Lydia Bradey, from New Zealand, will attempt a first ascent on 6,940m Bekka Brakai Chhok.
British Imperial College Shimshal Expedition: Students for first ascents
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Joseph Johnstone is leading a team of six British college students hoping to bag some first ascents on peaks under 6,500 meters in Shimshal valley.
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