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Summer 2006 Karakorum expeditions
Updated: June 30, 2006
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes Did we forget you or your friends? Mail us at:team@explorersweb.com Alert: 50% concession in royalty fee continues into 2006. The status of 6500m peaks as trekking peaks (without royalty fee) will also remain applicable during the current season. In addition, Pakistan Government has decided that only 10% royalty will be taken for mountains situated in Chitral, Gilgit and Ghizar. Source: Explorersweb.com / Saltoro Summits
K2 - 8611m
Climbing permit 6000 USD for a team of seven, 1000 USD each additional climber.
The Irish Comeback- Banjo Bannon back for K2
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After being forced back due to poor weather conditions last year, Irish Banjo Bannon is returning to K2 this summer. He will attempt the Abruzzi Spur, since he already knows the route from his previous expedition. He will use no supplementary O2 or High Altitude porters.
Banjo has been climbing for 20 years - he summited Everest in 2003. Banjo won’t be the only Irishmen attempting K2 this year though. Mick Murphy and Ger Mc Donald, memrs in FTA team, are giving it a try after Broad Peak. Banjo’s 2005 expedition website:www.irishk2005.com
Canadian + Ian Bergeron
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Canadian Ian Bergeron reached K2’s BC in 2004 as a trekker. Now he is coming back - as a climber. Bergeron has earned a place as photographer, cameraman and backup-climber on a K2 team led by of Maxime Jean and Mario Dutil, from Quebec. The seven-member team will attempt the Abruzzi Spur route.
Expedition’s website (French):www.sommets.net/k2/accueil.php Ian Bergeron’s website:www.ianbergeron.com
JAP Tokai K2 Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
The Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club is launching an eight-member team for K2 (no route specified). Leader is Deriha Yoshitsugu.
Japanese Alpine Club’s website (Japanese / English):www.jac.or.jp
Shams Alpine Pakistan K-2 Expedition 2006
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Shams Alpine Mountaineering and trekking (Pvt) Ltd (SAMTL) is formed by a team of young mountaineers and High Altitude porters from Shimshal, also known as the “Valley of Mountaineers”. They are now organizing the first 'local' expedition to K2.
Expedition leader Qudrat Ali (Chief Executive of SAMTL) has summited four out of the five 8000ers in Pakistan. The second Pakistani climber on the 2006 K2 expedition is K2 summiteer Shaheen Baig (Director (SAMTL) born in Shimshal in 1972. Shams Alpine’s website:www.shamsalpine.com French Hugues and Antoine
EXPEDITION ONGOING
There are at least two French citizens attempting K2 this year. First is Hugues d' Aubarede, a 59 year old climber from Lyon. Hugues has previously summited Everest and GII, as well as Nanga Parbat last year. He is teaming up with the Pakistani SAMTL expedition, and fellow French Antoine Girard. They are climbing the Abruzzi Spur route.
K2’s West face Russian expedition
EXPEDITION POSTPONED TO 2007
The Russian team who opened a new line on the center of Everest’s North face in 2004 has found another spot for a bold, huge new line: K2’s West face. Leader Viktor Kozlov, and team members Vassily Yelagin, Piotr Kuznetsov and Pavel Shabalin spent a few weeks by the West face scouting out access routes through the glacier and possible routes on the wall until they found a pass to the sheer wall near the Pakistan/Chinese border.
The expedition’s launch date is set for May 20, 2006. The climb will be a joint effort by a pretty sizeable team, including up to 20 first-class climbers. However, the expedition has yet to be confirmed since logistic and financial issues are still in the works. Info on the expedition on RussianClimb:www.russianclimb.com
Field Touring Alpine K2-Broad Peak double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Dave Hancock’s Australian outfitter Field Touring Alpine has launched the first commercial expedition for both Broad Peak and K2. Although not exactly guided (each climber must be self-sufficient and decided on schedules), the team is fully supported.
The huge team consists of 25 international climbers, most of them fairly experienced in altitude and ranging from 23 to 62 years old. Some of them will attempt the double-header while others are only aiming for Broad. A few members will be climbing K2 without O2; those using supplementary oxygen be using Poisk for the climb. Climbing team leader is Jeff Justman. The team will climb BP from the standard West Ridge route. Meanwhile, their altitude porters will fix lines and set the first camps on K2. Once acclimatized, the climbers will go for the Abruzzi Spur on K2. They are hopeful that they’ll need only a couple of climbs to C1 and C3 before a definitive summit bid. Also in the team is Dutch Wilco van Rooijen, hoping to become the first Dutch to reach the summit of Broad Peak. Then he will go for K2, a mountain he previously attempted in 1996. In addition, Wilco summited Everest in 2003 reached the North Pole in 1997and the South Pole in 2000 (Patriot Hills to SP and kited back). FTA's team official list of members: Jeff Justman - Leader K2-BP - Leader US; Ryan Waters - Asst Leader K2-BP - Asst. Leader US; Kurt Grimm K2-BP US; Mich Murphy K2-BP Ireland; Carl Drew K2-BP US; Matthew Gardiner K2-BP UK; Josette Valloton K2 only Switzerland; Nick Barclay K2-BP Australia; Wilco van Rooijen K2-BP Dutch; Joelle Bruphacher K2-BP Switzerland; Alan Arnette K2-BP US; Marcus Dell BP-K2 Canada; Gerard McDonnell K2-BP Ireland; Jan Van der Meer BP Dutch; John Roche BP Ireland; Ian de Bruyn BP South Africa/Australia; Diane Walker BP South Africa/Australia; Mark Sheen BP Australia; John Dowd BP Ireland; Michael Parker BP Australia; Con Collins BP Ireland. Expedition’s website:www.fieldtouring.com Alan Arnette’s website:www.alanarnette.com Wilco van Rooijen’s website (Dutch):www.expeditienet.nl/tweebergen.com
Nives Meroi & Romano Benet - Italian K2 expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After summiting Dhaulagiri in spring, Italian female climber Nives Meroi will give K2 a third try. Nives, husband Romano Benet, Mario Cedolin, and Roberto Alloi will attempt the peak from its Southern, Pakistani side.
Nives'website (Italian):www.nives.alpinizem.net
Russian K2 Kuzbass 2006
EXPEDITION ONGOING
This team from Siberia comprises eight members led by Yuri Uteshev – other climbers are Alexander Foigt (coach), Piotr Kuznetsov, Vicror Kulbachenko, Arcady Kuvakin, Alexander Gaponov, Alexey Rusakov, Serguey Naumenko. They hope to summit K2 via the Abruzzi Spur route.
News on the team on:www.russianclimb.com
Serguey Bogomolov & Gia Tortladze
After succeeding earlier this year on Manaslu, Russian Serguey Bogomolov and Georgian Gia Tortladze are giving a try to K2.
News on Serguey and Gia on:www.russianclimb.com
Broad Peak - 8051m
Climbing permit 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
2006 mBank Himalayan Trilogy Expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After Cho Oyu and Annapurna, Piotr Pustelnik will lead fellow Polish Piotr Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor on Broad Peak in summer. After Broad, Pustelnik will retire from 8000+meters eaks climbing.
Before retiring though, Piotr hopes to climb a new and difficult route on BP's southern ridge in alpine style. To better acclimatize, the team will first climb the normal route up to about 7000m. They will be accompanied by Kinga Baranowska and Andrzej Rusowicz, who will then proceed up to the summit via the traditional route. News on the team on HiMountain.pl (Polish/English):www.himountain.pl
Australian Broad Peak expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Terence Tremble will lead a 7 member team on Broad Peak this summer.
Edurne Pasaban + Al Filo de lo Imposible
EXPEDITION POSTPONED
Spanish documentary series Al Filo de lo Imposible (On the Edge of the Impossible) has confirmed their climb of Broad Peak this summer. The team includes Basque climber Edurne Pasabán, who will be attempting her ninth 8000er with BP.
Edurne’s website (Spanish / Euskera):www.edurnepasaban.net
Field Touring Alpine K2-Broad Peak double-header
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A large group of climbers plus guides and porters will climb Broad Peak’s normal route and then head for K2’s Abruzzi Spur, on this huge commercial expedition set up by Field Touring Alpine. Check the info under K2 for all details.
Expedition’s website:www.fieldtouring.com Alan Arnette’s website:www.alanarnette.com Wilco van Rooijen’s website (Dutch):www.expeditienet.nl/tweebergen.com
Carlos Pauner’s Aragon Broad Peak + GII expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After climbing Dhaulagiri in spring, Spaniard Carlos Pauner will attempt Broad Peak and GII this summer along with some climbing friends. Carlos has previously reached BP’s fore-summit. Last year, he hoped to summit both Gasherbrums, but bad weather conditions only allowed him one: GI (Hidden Peak). In 2006 he hopes to finish the job, and thus complete all Pakistan 8000+ meters summits in his 14 8000er quest.
Carlos’ Website (Spanish): www.carlospauner.com
Dutch for G2 + Broad Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Reinier Zuidhoff is the leader of a 4 man-strong team planning to climb Broad Peak through a fast ascent after climbing GII, traditional style.
Other team members are Jelle Egas (42), Folkert Bloembergen (46), and Menno Frantzen (43). Expedition’s Website (Dutch): www.demmeniesport.com/expedities/nederlandse_karakorum_expeditie2006
Markus Kronthaler on Hermann Buhl’s footsteps
EXPEDITION ONGOING
A German/Austrian combo led by Markus Kronthaler hopes to follow Hermann Buhl’s last expedition, on Broad Peak and Chogolisa. Among the ranks is climber and researcher Jochen Hemmleb, a regular contributor to ExplorersWeb.
The Austrian-German team consists of 9 climbers: Markus Kronthaler (leader), Dieter Antoni, Sepp Bachmair, Sepp Heigenhauser, Reinhard Keck, Engelbert Obex, Peter Ressmann, Wolfgang Wörister, and Gerald Zenz. Most are experienced mountain guides and/or members of the Austrian Mountain Police (Alpingendarmerie). Everest researcher Jochen Hemmleb will accompany them as a photographer and writer. Jochen Hemmleb (author of several books on the subject) has offered interesting insights into the quest for the true fate of Mallory and Irvine, through his articles on ExplorersWeb. On Broad Peak, the team will attempt the classic 1957 route via the West Spur. Then they'll move to Chogolisa (also known as the Bride Peak) where they will attempt a ski ascent & descent. Markus’ website (German): www.weltderberge.com Patagonia mountain guides for a Broad Peak Argentinean first
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Five Argentinean mountain guides from El Calafate are changing the Patagonian winter for the Karakorum summer. Team leader Marcos Frischknecht (39), Ramiro Calvo (31), Leonardo Proverbio (25), Luciano Fiorenza (27), and Jose Pera (30) are aiming for a first Argentinean ascent on Broad Peak.
Expedition’ Website (Spanish): www.hieloyaventura.com/bpk2006 Ucranian Broad Peak expedition
An Ucranian team led by Zagirniak Mykhaylo is planning on climbing Broad Peak this season.
Spanish Broad Peak expedition
Jorge Egocheaga,fresh from summiting Manaslu in spring this year, is the leader of a further Spanish team attempting Broad Peak.
Czech Broad Peak expedition
Josef Nezerka is the leader of A Czech team attempting Broad Peak this season.
Slovakian Broad Peak expedition
An Slovakian team led by Peter Sperka is also expected this summer on Broad Peak.
Spanish Broad Peak expedition
Llatzer Mendez is the leader of a large Spanish team joining the crowds on BP this summer.
Russian Chernogolovka Broad Peak Expedition
This team comprises five members, the leader being Leonid Butov.
Nanga Parbat - 8125m
Climbing permit 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
Tom Torkelson’s VisionQuest expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
After summiting Everest in 2005 and Cho Oyu in 2004, VisionQuest Director and lead guide Tom Torkelson is climbing Pakistan's Nanga Parbat with a small German team. The team consists of Johannes Neideggen and Toni Betker, from Angermunde, Germany. Tony will remain in BC, while Johannes and Tom climb the Kinshofer route, on the Diamir side of the mountain.
Expedition’ Website: visionquestjourneys.com Bulgarians for Nanga Parbat + new route on GI
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Nikolay Petkov and Doychin Boyanov - two of the best known high-altitude climbers in Bulgaria- are headed back to Pakistan. This year they have set their sights on a cool double-header: Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). Nikolay and Doychin plan to attempt both peaks in light style.
On Hidden Peak they hope to climb a new route from the Southwest face. Petkov and Boyanov, Everest veterans, are also familiar with Pakistani peaks: Both attempted BP in 2001, and Boyanov reached 8150 meters on K2 last year as a member of the Polish-Bulgarian team. News on the team (Bulgarian): www.climbingguidebg.com
Japanese Nanga Parbat expedition 2006
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Fukuda Yasushi is leading another six climbers on Nanga Parbat this year.
Austria Nanga Parbat expedition 2006
EXPEDITION ABORTED
Gerhard Wegmair will lead a team of 4 members on Nanga Parbat.
Korean Nanga Parbat expedition 2006
Yu Jin Kyung is leading another five climbers on Nanga Parbat this year.
Amical Nanga Parbat expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Germany-Based outfitter Amical is launching a guided expedition on Nanga Parbat. Rainer Pircher and Stephan Keck will guide a team on the classic Kinshofer route (Diamir side).
Amical website (German):www.amical.de
Gasherbrum I (8080m) + Gasherbrum II (8034m) double-headers
Climbing permit for each peak: 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
Spanish Extremadura GII & Hidden Peak expedition
Francisco Briongos is the leader of a 12-member team from Extremadura (western Spain), attempting GII this summer. Other team members confirmed to be attempting both peaks are: Kake Rovira, Juan José Rubio, Martín Masa, and Diego Hernández.
Expedition’s website (Spanish):www.extremaduraexpedicion.com
Magic Line team leader Oscar Cadiach for GI and GII
Catalan Oscar Cadiach, who led the team that achieved the first repetition of K2’s Magic Line in 2004, is guiding a large group of climbers on both GI and GII this summer.
Yugoslavians for GI and GII
Milivoj Erdeljan is leading another four fellow climbers for a double-header, hoping to summit both Gasherbrums.
French GI and GII expedition
Jean Noel Urban is leading a French team on both Gasherbrums this summer.
Dutch GI and GII expedition
A Dutch team led by Frits Vrijlandt also hopes to summit both Gasherbrums this summer.
Russian GI and GII expedition
GI and GII is also the double goal of a Russian team led by Alexander Pyatnitsin.
Gasherbrum I - 8080m
Climbing permit 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
Bulgarians for Nanga Parbat + new route on GI
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Nikolay Petkov and Doychin Boyanov - two of the best known high-altitude climbers in Bulgaria will attempt to open a new route on Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) from the Southwest face, after climbing Nanga Parbat. Nikolay and Doychin plan to attempt both peaks in light style.
News on the team (Bulgarian): www.climbingguidebg.com Anna Czerwinska for Hidden Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Anna Czerwinska, Darek Zaluski and Tamara Stys are departing Poland on July 4, hoping to summit Hidden Peak (GI). Ace Polish climbers Anna and Darek attempted K2 in 2005, with no success. Actually, things have gone much better for both of them this year, with Anna summiting Makalu and Darek reaching the top on Everest (with Polish Falvit south side expedition).
Czerwinska has already bagged the summits of Everest, Nanga Parbat, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, GII, and Makalu, plus BP’s foresummit and Shisha Central. Darek Zaluski has summited Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Gasherbrum II, and Everest. Tamara has previously summited peak Lenin. News on the team (Polish): www.himountain.pl
Canuck GI expedition
Trevor R. Hunt is leading a Canadian team on Hidden Peak this summer.
Gasherbrum II - 8034m
Climbing permit 4500 USD for a team of seven, 750 USD each additional climber.
Kari Kobler + Manuel Gonzalez for a first complete ascent on GII’s north side
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Spaniard Manuel ‘Lolo’ Gonzalez is joining an international team led by Swiss Kari Kobler on G2 this summer. The team will reach the peak from the North side, located in Chinese territory.
There have been several attempts from GII’s North side, but no one has ever completed a route to the summit from that side. The team will decide on the route depending on conditions. Kobler’s website (German): www.kobler-partner.ch
Spain Mayencos expedition
Alberto Ayora is leading ten fellow Spaniards on Gasherbrum II this summer to commemorate Mayencos Mountain Club’s 50th anniversary. Among the team members are 4 climbers from the Spanish Mountain Military corps, all with extensive experience in the Himalayas.
Expedition’s website (Spanish): www.scati.com/gasherbrumdos2006
Mike Farris (ATP team)
EXPEDITION ONGOING
In Pakistan's authorities list, Mike Farris appears as leader of a 12-member team for Gasherbrum 2. “The G2 permit that I am 'leading' is actually an international group of various teams organized through ATP (Adventure Tours Pakistan outfitting company)," Mike told ExWeb though. "I am leading as a favor to my friends at ATP.”
Mike Farris’ website: www.mfarris.net Adventure Tours Pakistan’ website: atp.com.pk/atp06
Spanish GII expedition
A large team (12 members) led by Xabier Alzola Beltran is attempting GII this summer.
Spanish Aragon GII expedition
Juanjo Garra is leading seven climbers up GII this summer.
Spanish GII expedition
Another Spanish team is expected to join the crowds attempting GII this summer. The team, led by Andoni Ormazabal, will consist of 12 climbers.
Mexican couple Badia and Mauricio + Yugoslavian team
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Badia Bonilla (39) and Mauricio Lopez (47) from Mexico hope to summit GII this summer. Last year bad weather prevented them from succeeding on GI.The couple has previously summited Lhotse, Everest, and Cho Oyu. Badia also made it to the summit of Makalu (on O2) in 2004. They are reportedly sharing climbing permit with a Yugoslavian team.
Expedition’s website (Spanish): www.unaparejaenascenso.com
Italian Marios are back: Merelli and Panzeri for Gasherbrum II
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Barely recovered from a long climb on Lhotse, where they turned back just a few meters shy from the summit, Italians Mario Merelli and Lina Quesada are now going for GII. Also on the team is Mario Panzeri, fresh from summiting Makalu earlier this spring. Both Marios have shared a number of Himalayan expeditions – among them, Annapurna, which they summited in 2005.
Merelli’s website (Italian): www.mariomerelli.it Korean Donga GII expedition
Seok Ho Lee is leading a large team (12 climbers) on GII this summer.
Italian GBII expedition
Mr. Martoia is the name registered as the leader of a six-member Italian team for GII.
Dutch for G2 + Broad Peak
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Reinier Zuidhoff is the leader of this 4 man-strong team.First stop for the expedition will be Gasherbrum II, which they will climb in traditional style. Once acclimatized after reaching the summit of GII, the Dutch plan to move to Broad Peak hoping to complete its normal route through a fast, single push.
Other team members are Jelle Egas (42), Folkert Bloembergen (46), and Menno Frantzen (43). Expedition’s Website (Dutch):www.demmeniesport.com/expedities/nederlandse_karakorum_expeditie2006
Carlos Pauner’s Aragon Broad Peak + GII expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Spaniard Carlos Pauner will attempt Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II this year. Read more details under Broad Peak’s expeditions list above.
Carlos’ Website (Spanish):www.carlospauner.com
Austrian Golden Jubilee GB-II
EXPEDITION ONGOING
No less than 25 climbers are listed for this huge team led by Ewald Putz and Josef Hinding - expected on the slopes of GII by the end of June this year.
Polish Playground Friends GII
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Polish ace climber Krzyszof Wielicki has teamed up with Ryszard Pawlowski, and Janusz Majer to lead about 25 climbers up GII.
News on the team on HiMountain.pl (Polish): www.himountain.pl
Kari Kobler's Switzerland GII expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Richard Bolt is the leader of a 10-member Swiss team attempting Gasherbrum II this summer. The expedition has been launched by Kari Kobler & Partner outfitting company.
Germany GII expedition
A 10-member German team led by Luis Andreas Stizinger will attempt GII this summer.
Amical GII expedition (+ GIV attempt)
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Germany-Based outfitter Amical is launching a guided expedition on GII. The group was fully-booked already in February.Guides are Michi Wärthl & David Göttler.
After leading the team on GII, Michi and David may attempt the difficult Gasherbrum IV. Amical website (German): www.amical.de Mountain Madness GII (+ GI extension)
EXPEDITION POSTPONED TO 2007
American outfitter Mountain Madness is launching a guided expedition on GII. The team will use high altitude porters - supplementary O2 is only provided for emergency purposes.
The outfitter offers a 14 days extension to the trip, for those who want to attempt GI (Hidden Peak) as well.
Expedition's Website:www.mountainmadness.com
Field Touring Alpine GII
Field Touring Alpine GII expedition is launching a commertial expedition on Gasherbrum II's standard route (SW ridge). FTA offers a fully supplied, guided trip, and also logistic support for independent climbers.
Expedition's Website: www.fieldtouring.com Adventure Consultants GII
EXPEDITION ONGOING
NZ-based outfitter Adventure Consultants is launching an expedition on GII this year, from June 27 to August 15. This is a fully supplied, guided expedition.
Expedition's Website: www.adventure.co.nz
Austrian Globetrek GII expedition
Christian Babl is the leader of an Austrian 7-member team on GII this summer.
7000 – 8000 meter peaks
7501-8000m peaks: Climbing permit 2000 USD for a team of seven, 250 USD for each additional climber.
7001-7500m peaks: Climbing permit 1250 USD for a team of seven, 150 USD each additional climber.
Gasherbrum IV – 7925m
USA/UK Gasherbrum IV expedition
EXPEDITION POSTPONED
American John Varco, and British Ian Parnell and Kenton Cool will be heading out in June to try the Kurtyka-Schauer line on the West face.
In 2003, the trio achieved the first ascent of Annapurna III’s SW ridge. The route, done in alpine style, had been attempted before but never completed until then, and it was nominated for the Piolet d’Or.
Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baró for GIV
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Magic Line 2004 summiteer Jordi Corominas is heading back to the Karakorum Range after taking the international climbing community by storm last year when he climbed the last sections of K2’s Magic Line - alone. In 2004, Jordi reached the summit at midnight after a 24 hour push in deep snow. He managed to make it back to BC via the Abruzzi Spur in stormy conditions.
Accompanying him on G IV will be Oriol Baró, a young promising climber also from the Pyrenees mountains (on the border between Spain and France). On GIV the two climbers will try to open a new route from the West face, alpine style. Corominas’ guiding company website (Spanish): www.guiasbenasque.com
Amical GIV expedition
German guides with Amical outfitters, Michi Wärtl and David Göttler, will attempt GIV right after guiding clients up to the summit of the neighboring Gasherbrum II.They will approach GIV from its south side.
Amical Alpine (German): www.amical.de
Slovakia GIV expedition
Jozef Kopold and two other climbers are attempting GIV this year. It is unclear which route the team will follow.
Masherbrum– 7821m
Russian Big Wall Project Masherbrum expedition
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Russian Big Wall Routes project team, led by Alexander Oditsov, is ready to amaze the climbing community once more. After winning the Piolet d’Or two years ago for the bold ascent on the North face of Jannu (also awarded by ExplorersWeb among the Best of that year), the powerful Russian team is now trying to open a new route on Masherbrum, located at the SW corner of the Baltoro Glacier.
Team leader Alexander Odintsov had to be evacuated due to illness just after reaching BC. New leader Alexander Ruchkin has decided the team will attempt the peak’s north ridge intead of the NE face, as previously planned. Other team members are Mikhailov, a regular on Russian Big Walls project, and new members Oleg Khvostenko and Evgeny Dmitrienko. Dr. Mikhail Bakin,will take care of the team in BC and inform on the climbers’ progress. Info on the team on Mountain.ru(Russian/English):www.mountain.ru
Kunyang Chhish – 7852m
Japanese Kunyang Chhish expedition International
A Japanese team led by Tobita Kazuo has applied to climb this rarely visited, yet very high peak.
Steve House’s plan B
Although it’s not yet clear if Steve House will be finally able to climb K6, the American climber has come up with a Plan B: Khunyang Chhish. The other 4 climbers on the team may be the same ones attempting K6.
Canadian Khunyang Chhish expedition
Just like Steve House, Canadian Raphael Slawinski and three other clibmers have asked for a climbing permit both on K6 and Khunyang Chhish.
Tirich Mir – 7708m
The Chitral Valley in northern Pakistan has been closed to foreigners for security reasons and local authorities are refusing climbing permits in the region.
Greece Tirich Mir Expedition
EXPEDITION POSTPONED
Nikolaos Kroupis will be the leader of this 8-member Greek team attempting the impressive peak, located in the Hindu Kush range.
Baintha Brakk (Ogre) – 7285m
Canadian Baintha Brakk expedition
Six Canadian climbers led by Jeff Relph will attempt to reach the summit of the highly difficult Baintha Brakk, also known as The Ogre. Last year, two strong Spanish teams failed to reach the summit of the 7,280m mountain.
Rakaposhi – 7788m
Japanese Ichiro Hosada
Ichiro Hosada, who originally hoped to climb Tirich Mir, has switched to Rakaposhi since Tirich Mir's area was closed to foreigners due to security reasons. Osada has applied for a one-person permit.
Poles for Rakaposhi and Passu Peak
Piotr Pawlus is the leader of a 5-men Polish team for Rakaposhi (7788m) and Passu Peak (7478m) this summer.
Batura – 7762m
Alpineclub Sachsen Batura expedition
EXPEDITION ABORTED
German Alpinclub Sachsen (Saxony’s Alpine Club) was awarded among the best of ExplorersWeb 2005 for their ongoing relief work in Pakistan’s NW regions which begun last October when a massive earthquake killed thousands and left 3 million people homeless.
Club-member Markus Walter traveled to Pakistan to solve a different, but still unresolved issue. It's one he's had with Batura II since 2002. Nearly 4 years on, Markus, teaming up with Scottish Bruce Normand, hopes to summit the peak. This will be his second attempt. Alpinclub Sachsen’s website (German):www.alpinclub.com
Chogolisa – 7665m
Catalan (Spanish) Chogolisa expedition
A Catalan (Spanish) team led by Jordi Boshi is attempting Chogolisa – also known as The Bride Peak – a tricky yet beautiful mountain where Hermann Buhl met his death.
Markus Kronthaler following Hermann Buhl’s footsteps
Austrian Markus Kronthaler is following in fellow Austrian legend Hermann Buhl’s footsteps. His team aims for a double-header on Broad Peak and Chogolisa. Buhl achieved the first ascent on Broad Peak in 1957, and immediately afterwards went for Chogolisa, where he fell to his death when a cornice broke under his feet.
Markus’ website (German):www.weltderberge.com
British Chogolisa expedition
Benjamin Peter Gready is leading a 4-member Brtish team on Chogolisa this summer.
Luphar Sar East – 7199m
Korean Luphar Shar
A Korean 5-member expedition led by Lee Bum Jee hopes to reach the East summit of this peak, located in Hispar area.
Latok I - 7151m
Benegas Brothers third attempt on Latok I
Brothers Guillermo (Willie) and Damian Benegas are ready to give Latok I a third try. Both in 2004 and 2005, poor conditions forced the Argentinean (US residents) brothers to abort their climb on the peak’s North face, where they were aiming for a new route. This year they hope for better luck. If they make it in time, the Benegas may also attempt The Ogre.
Info on Benegas on The North Face's website:www.thenorthface.com
Canadian Latok 1 and West K-7 expedition
Maxime Turgeon and an unidentified climbing partner hope to climb both Latok I and the West point of K7.
Spantik- 7027m
German Spantik expedition
Uwe Kaufmann will lead other three climbers on Spantik this summer.
Korean Spantik expedition
Kim Young Sik will lead a team on Spantik this summer.
Australian Spantik expedition
Simon Yates is guiding an Australian team on Spantik, launched by Wold Expedition's outfitter.
World Expeditions' website: www.worldexpeditions.com.au
Spanish Spantik expedition
Francisco Javier Goni Lobera will lead other three climbers on Spantik this summer.
Jagged-Globe Spantik expedition
The UK-based outfitter Jagged Globe is launching a 8-member team on Spantik this summer, led by John Eames.
Jagged Globe's website:www.jagged-globe.co.uk
Shisper - 7611m
France Shisper expedition
Jean Annekin, who previously hoped to climb Tirich Mir (located in an area currently closed to foreigners) and his team have switched to Shisper peak as his climbing goal.
Passu Peak - 7285m
France Passu Peak expedition
Dominique Fournier is the leader of a 6-member team on Passu Peak this summer.
Diran Peak - 7257m
Hungary Tengerszem Diran Peak
This is another team who had to go for a plan-B after Tirich Mir was closed to foreigners. Their selected option is Diran Peak. Laszlo Voros leads another 6 climbers on the attempt.
Slovenian Diran North Bridge expedition
Mrak Irena and two other Slovenian climbers will attempt Diran North Bridge this summer. Diran's north Bridge is 7257m.
Link Sar - 7047m
USA Link Sar, Dansum Peak & K13 expedition
Steve Swenson and two other climbers have applied for a climbing permit on these three peaks. Steve had also applied for a permit to climb K6 West (7100m).
K6 – 7100m
Steve House for K6
EXPEDITION TENTATIVE
American Steve House applied for a climbing permit for K6 earlier this year. However, sources from Pakistan’s Ministry of Tourism revealed the application has been denied, since the peak is located in a restricted area.
Canadian K6 expedition
EXPEDITION TENTATIVE
Raphael Slawinski, as leader of a 4-member Canadian team, has also asked for a climbing permit on K6 this summer. It’s quite possible, however, that his application may be denied as was American Steve House’s. In fact, both Steve and Raphael’s teams have also asked for permit to climb a second peak: Khunyang Chhish. No confirmation yet whether both teams will be climbing together.
6000 - 7000 meter peaks
6501-7000m peaks: Climbing permit 700 USD for a team of seven, 100 USD each additional climber. 6000 - 6500m peaks: No climbing permit required.
K7 – 6934m
British K7 expedition
British David Roy Lampard and three other climbers will attempt K7, a peak that rises in the Charakusa Valley.
American K7 expedition
Conrad Anker plans to lead an all-American team to Pakistan this summer. Members include Jimmy Chin, Peter Croft, Vera Schulte-Pelkum, and Kevin Thaw. Their main goal: To traverse all three of K7's summits through a fast, alpine-style push. However, according to their sponsor The North Face, the climbers will also spend some time bouldering and climbing shorter routes in the area.
Info on the team on The North Face's website:www.thenorthface.com
Canadian Latok 1 and West K-7 expedition
Maxime Turgeon and an unidentified climbing partner hope to climb both Latok I and the west point of K7.
Latok III – 6940m
Spanish Latok III expedition
Alvaro Novellon Casamian and a climbing partner will attempt Latok III this summer.
Uli Biaho – 6417m
American Uli Biaho expedition
After accomplishing a one-day ascent of the Nameless Tower (Trango group) last yeat, American Micah Dash will be leading an expedition to climb the neighboring Uli Biaho this summer. The team will leave on July 7 and remain in the Karakorum valley through August.
Slovak young guns for Uli Biaho, Shipton, Cat’s Ear
EXPEDITION ONGOING
Slovak climbers Dodo Kopold, and Gabo Cmarik opened a major new route on the great Trango Tower last year. This summer, the pair is back for a triple header: Uli Biaho’s NE face, North face of Shipton Spire and North face of Cat´s Ear Spire.
Accompanied by cameraman Palo Pekarcik, the pair will leave on May 21. They expect to spend two months among the Karakorum’s towers, setting up BC on the glacier and climbing the three neighboring peaks. Expedition’s website (Slovakian):www.karakoram2006.expedition.sk
Great Trango Tower – 6286m
Amical Great Trango Tower expedition
Germany-Based outfitter Amical is launching a guided expedition on Karakorum's Great Trango Tower. Guide will be Herbert Wolf, IFMGA/UIAGM-guide with extense Himalayan experience. Clients should be able to climb grade V UIAA (5.6 US scale), must be skilled on mixed terrain with crampons and should be able to take care of his own food when in higher camps. Sections steeper than 40° will be equipped with fixed ropes. Amical website (German):www.amical.de |
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