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Pakistan extra update: Broad Peak SUMMITS, Veikka tops out no 13; BP, G1, G2 and G4 in full summit pushes
09:10 pm CDT Jul 31, 2008
(K2Climb.net) Today at around 11 am, French duo Stephane Portier and Claude Labatut, Italians Mario Panzeri and Daniele Nardi, and Finnish Veikka Gustafsson summited Broad Peak.
The mountain marks the second top in Pakistan this season for the Italians who previously summited Nanga Parbat, and also for Veikka Gustafsson who previously summited G2. With Broad Peak, Panzeri now has 9x8000ers, Nardi 4x8000ers and Veikka 13x8000ers.
Here go other updates from the Karakoram peaks, courtesy of Rodrigo Granzotto Peron in Brazil (ExWeb regular mountain Editor Angela Benavides is off climbing in the Alps this week.)
Broad Peak - other teams
Spaniards Aitor Las Hayas, Lina Quesada and Cia had planned a summit bid on July 30th in tandem with Alberto Zerain's summit bid on K2, but the plans were postponed due to high winds on BP. They will try again today or tomorrow.
There are no updates on Mexicans Badia and Mauricio since their visit with climbers in K2 BC about ten days back.
Broad Peak, G1 and G2 triple
Valery Babanov and Viktor Afanasyev summited BP on July 17th via a new, 3000 meter long route which they rated “VI, WI5, M6, Max 90º”. Starting July 29th, the two are now to attempt a new route on the SW face of Gasherbrum 1 in alpine style.
Gasherbrum 1
Mid-July, Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio attempted Gasherbrum I along with Veikka Gustafsson, but the two were forced to abort the summit bid around 7.600m due to bad weather. The Colombian climber is now headed home.
There have been no updates on Dani & Paulo's summit bid. The Portuguese couple planned a summit push on G1 this week.
Gasherbrum 2
Danish climbers Jan Elleby, Erik Molgard, Henning Beck and Jacob Jensen reached C3 and are headed for the summit in the upcoming days. No news yet on Carlos Soria. The North Face ski and snowboard expedition aborted their summit attempt on July 23d, due to high winds and excess of snow on the route.
Gasherbrum 4
The Spanish expedition led by Juan Vallejo (José Carlos Tamayo, Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Ferrán Latorre) is in full summit push. They reached C2 (6500m) on July 29th, C3 (6900m) on July 30th, and C4 (7400) today after a very exhausting climb on steep, mixed terrain (altitude gain today was 600m). The team aims for the summit in the next few days.
Nanga Parbat
American Fabrizio Zangrilli left today with Billy and Dave for Islamabad and their attempt on the Rupal Face. Check in on Fabrizio Zangrilli Rupal Face dispatches for a detailed report on the team's gear.
Links to teams in Pakistan:
K2
French K2 west face expedition
Wilco van Rooijen's Norit K2 expedition
Gerard McDonnell's dispatches
Marco Confortola's updates
Singapore expedition
Cecilie Skog's updates
Nick Rice's dispatches
Baltoro Express expedition's website
Dodo Kopold's website
Mike Farris expedition's website
Hugues d'Aubarede
GI, GII, G3 & Broad Peak
Peter Hamor's website
Piotr Morawski's website
Pustelnik's Himalayan weblog
Broad Peak, GI & GII
Valeri Babanov
Broad Peak
Badia & Mauricio's website
Joao Garcia's blog
Serge Civera's updates
Alberto Zerain, Aitor Hayas and Juan Carlos Gonzalez's team blog
Lina Quesada's blog
Rafael Merchán's updates
Panzeri & Nardi's Mountain Freedom
Nanga Parbat
Shared Summits
Iranian Challengers
Karl Unterkircher
Luis Stitzinger/nangaparbat2008.de
Fabrizio Zangrilli Rupal Face dispatches
GI & GII
Alex Gavan's website
Roby Piantoni's updates
Marco Astori
Fernando González Rubio
GII
Hirotaka's blog
Field Touring's updates
Amical Alpin
Kari Kobler's team
Daniela Teixeira's dispatches
Karakorum's lower peaks & spires
Don Bowie
Simone Moro
Kyle Dempster
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