Permit & Paperwork
On the south side
To climb K2 from the Pakistani side, it is
necessary to apply for permission from the Ministry of Tourism
in Islamabad. The peak fee for south side expeditions is 12,000 USD for a team of up to 7 climbers, and
USD for each additional climber. For 2003 & 2004 the royalty has been decreased by 50% to celebrate
the Golden Jubilee of Nanga Parbat & K2. It means for this
year the royalty for K2 is 6000 USD for 7 climbers & 1000
USD for each additional climber.
Likewise, royalty for Nanga Parbat,
Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum II is 9000 USD for a
team of 7 and 1500 USD for each additional climber. For
2003 & 2004 the same 50% discount is available for these
peaks. With the discount it comes to 4500 USD for 7 climbers &
750 USD for each additional climber. The same discount is valid for all peaks above 6000 meters.
In addition to the peak fee,
you will need to put up a 6,000 USD rescue bond (completely
refundable if it is not used), and a 200 USD environmental fee. K2 is approximately 50 Km. from Indian boarder so you
will be required to travel with a Pakistani Army "Liaison Officer"
(L.O.), and each expedition would provide his allowances & equipment
etc. A reasonable budget for a mid-size team
(without gear) is 8,000 USD per climber. For simply trekking to
Base Camp, a reasonable budget is 3,000 USD per trekker.
Although the Ministry of Tourism can be
contacted directly, it is advisable to hire an agent in
Islamabad to assist with delivering paperwork to the Ministry,
the customs hall, and other agencies.
The first Pakistani climber to climb K2, Ashraf Aman, owns and operates a company
called Adventure Tours Pakistan. His contact information is as
Remember that the prime climbing season on
K2 is June through August. Permits must typically be secured by
November (via a 1,000 USD deposit), although some exceptions
have been allowed.
The designated Rules from the Ministry can be read here. . .
On the north side
To climb K2 from the Chinese side, it is
necessary to apply for permission from the Chinese
Mountaineering Association in Beijing. The permit fee is only
approximately 1,000 USD per team on this side, but the
miscellaneous expenses will add up to much more. Although the
total package is negotiable, the Chinese side of K2 is generally
about 50% more expensive than the Pakistani side. The email
address for Mr. Ying Dao Shui, Vice Secretary-General of the
CMA, is firstname.lastname@example.org
(allow 1-2 weeks for response).
Whichever organizer you choose, the same
rules apply as for organizing a trip to Everest. You really should keep all the
negotiations with the tour operator in writing. Check Permit&Paperwork
on the Everest section for a list of details to be discussed
closely. When arriving in Pakistan, you need to check
all the gear provided (fuel bottles and such) before
leaving for the trek, in order not to be up for surprises upon
reaching the mountain. You won't need
a Letter of Recommendation to attain a climbing permit for